[TUBBYTUBB]

The cogs are probably stuck outward or even one of them came out and is stuck in between the clutch and the starter gear either way you will need a new starter clutch. The starter turning when you pull start it is a tell-tell sign of the starter clutch being screwed, I had the exact same thing happen not long ago and that is how I knew it was the SC. Yes with a recent rebuild if it is done right it will literally wear your arm out and hurt your hand when you try to pull start it because it has all of it's compression and everything isn't completely broke in also. One other thing that can cause it to be hard to pull start is that the valves aren't 100% correct and they are not opening correctly, Did you try to use the compression release?



THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

I figured that about the starter clutch. Well he will have to get a new one as well as purchase a puller. Figures! I did use the compression release last night and it did make it easier to pull start it. Of course after each pull I would have to flip the lever again but I still couldn't get it to start. So I will call the owner and see if he wants to purchase a new starter clutch? I looked on bikebandit and they sell them as a kit for around $190. The puller is going to be around $40. The current owner said he is getting to the point of giving up. Really he didn't need to rebuild it he probably could have gotten away with adjusting the valves for a while and then putting in an intake valve. He put a lot of money into stuff that didn't need to be replaced. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!

 

[rhinoexpress]

I should add I was thinking about trying to start it by pulling it with my other atv? Or should I wait? I don't want to ruin the new starter. I'm not sure if it starts if it will keep spinning the starter? Thanks.

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

Just to clarify I wasn't trying to sound rude or anything if I did. http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_secti..._section_detail.asp?section=81025&category=ATVs&make=SUZUKI&year=1996&fveh=1858 They have the whole set for $160. I would wait because it will stay engaged when it starts and will burn up that new starter. I'm not sure where you are located but I would just go to AutoZone and rent one because you will only use it for literally 5 minutes to remove the clutch. I would just wait on cranking it until you get a new clutch because 1. your going to hurt your arm trying to pull start it and 2. one of those cogs could wreak all kind of hell on the internal parts especially if it gets in the sub-trans gears or the stator. I just don't want it to become useless to try and fix it and end up having to spend more than is necessary. If the compression release didn't make it any easier odds are the valves aren't just right, I would loosen the set screws on the valves a 1/4 turn each and see if that helps in pull starting it just to see if it lessens the strain on your arm. If he is willing to pay for the parts I will do everything I can to help you get it worked out. Have you ever torn into one of these King Quads before? If not I have a post on here that will probably help you.



THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

No I didn't think you were rude at all. I appreciate all the advice you have given me so far and plan on loosening the valves a quarter turn tomorrow to see if that helps. Thanks for the website info too. Hopefully the owner doesn't want to give up at this point. I'll keep you posted. At this point all it needs is a starter clutch and depending on the valves maybe an intake valve. I do have an autozone close by. I didn't know they rented flywheel pullers? That's great! Thanks again.

 

[rhinoexpress]

I forgot to answer the last question no I have never tore one of these apart. I'll look for your other post. Thanks again.

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

http://www.suzukiatvforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2705#post2705 There is the post I was talking about. They normally charge the cost of a new one in most cases but when you return the tool undamaged they refund the entire amount. I hope the post I made will answer most questions about tearing it apart, the one thing I forgot to mention that I will add to the post when I get a chance is when you go to take the cam out to remove the head is to get a piece of wire and tie the chain up to the frame, this will keep the chain from falling down in the hole to keep from needing to take the side cover off unless you need to replace the timing chain then you will do it regardless.


THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

I worked on the KQ tonight for a little while. I didn't loosen the valves yet but once I put the carb, boots and air box back together I tried to start it. The clutch would not start the motor, but when I put the battery on my charger it said it is low so I am charging it. I also put it on booster and tried to start it and it did turn over 5-6 times! So, I am charging the battery in hopes that maybe a weak battery is another reason. I still need to get the owner to get a new starter clutch but I would like to see if the valve adjustment cured the problem? Just wanted to update you on things. Thanks again.

 

[rhinoexpress]

I read your post about the rebuild last night I found all the information very useful. Thanks. When you put the new cam in did it make a difference? Just curious. I am headed to Advance tomorrow night to see about the puller.

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

Well I haven't purchased the new HotCam just yet that is on my income tax wish list, but I did get it running today and man this thing has a $hit load of power now, I just need to harness it by adjusting the clutch some to get it to grab more consistently. I think Advance rents tools now also. I was parts manager at both Auto Zone and Advance but Advance didn't do it when I was there but AZ did. Yeah I would definitely like to know if the valve adjustment helped also, plus if it does once he hopefully gets the new clutch you won't have as much to worry about.



THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

I left the battery on charge last night while we went to a Christmas party and when I got back it was fully charged. So, I hit the starter and it slipped for a few revolutions and then started to turn the motor over. After the second complete revolution I knew the KQ is out of time. It does not sound right at all. Now I asked the current owner if it is in time and he said yes, but this is the first actual time since the rebuild that I have heard it turn over and it is not in time for sure. I am going to have to check this and of course put it back in time. I hate it when people bring me stuff that they worked on messed up and gave up on and then expect me to fix all of it for next to nothing! Grr! Oh well I am going to call Autozone today about the puller, it sounds like he will need a new timing chain if it is jumping time as well as a starter clutch. Of course if they didn't put it back together correctly it may not need the timing chain? The neighbor said it did run after they rebuilt it. He also said it stunk pretty bad and the exhaust got cherry red? I'm not working on it tonight so I'll let you know when I work on it next time. Talk to you soon.

 

[rhinoexpress]

I called the local Autozone today to find out about the flywheel puller unfortunately they do not have any atv pullers to rent. I told them the size and they tried to look it up for me but couldn't find anything. I also contacted Advance Auto Parts to see if by chance they had anything and no luck there either. So, the owner will have to buy one for this job. I really wish Autozone would have the rental because I have worked on several atvs and am tired of buying pullers for one time. Thanks anyhow.

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

Hey man it only takes a regular "crows foot puller" to removes the clutch, that is what I used. Also if your not sure of how to time it I can help you there and how to check it before you go pulling it apart also. Let me know if you need anything else.


THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

OK. I didn't know you could use one of those pullers. I was looking at the ones at Harbor Freight for my tool box anyhow. I have included a picture of them with this reply to make sure it is the same ones you are talking about. The set has a 3", 4" and 6" puller. Let me know? Also I contacted the owner and said he is into it this far so he is going to drop the money off for me on Thursday and I'll order the starter clutch set. In the mean time I am going to check the timing. I found the mark on the flywheel what marks should I be looking for on the cam? Thanks.

View attachment 61

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

Lemme go snap a pic of the puller I am talking about then I will tell you how to check the timing marks on the cam, BRB. Give me about 10 minutes.





THOMAS

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

This is the picture of the puller I am talking about I even included a picture of the way it lines up on the clutch.



Also you will need 3 M8x1.25 bolts that are approximately 5 inches long to be able to pull the clutch correctly, there is a little trick to getting it out in case you haven't done it before. Put the small nut that holds the pull start bell on the crank until it is about halfway on(use this to line the puller up, after you get the 3 bolts kinda snug in the puller get a hammer and gently pop the big puller bolt a couple of times and the clutch should almost fall off of the crank. As far as the timing marks go I am going to include a picture that I made in MS paint to help.

If you are unsure of how to read it I am going to tell you. On the side of the rocker/valve cover there is a plug on the left hand side pop this out, careful not to poke a hole in it taking it out, then inside of the hole you can see the cam. Once you can see inside the cam will have 2 little marks/lines on each side of it these need to be parallel with the top of the head(that is in red in the picture above) as long as the piston is at TDC and that is all there is to it. Lemme know if you need more help.



THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

That is great! I already have that puller in my collection of tools. I ordered the bolts yesterday for my brother in laws grizzly I am working on. His is the same situation you have to use the same puller to get the flywheel off. In his case he needs a timing chain. One question about using these pullers I noticed the center bolt on yours if a lot heavier, did you make/buy that or was that the way the puller came? Also thanks for the information on the easy way to get the flywheel off. I also wondered if the holes aren't threaded on a flywheel since I haven't gotten the cover off yet. Do you remove the starter clutch allen head bolts and put the puller bolts in there? Sorry to ask that I just wasn't sure? I am going to work on that tonight. First I am going to find out about the timing. Like I said in my previous posts it does not sound like it is in time. Thank you for your diagram it is the same as the one in the shop manual for the grizzly too. Now of course I'll have to check the valve adjustment because what I thought was in time wasn't. Oh well the main thing is to get the KQ running again. One more question, I found a used flywheel/starter clutch on ebay actually two of them one is a 2001 KQ starter clutch and the other is a 1987 LT250 flywheel/starter clutch assembly, do you think it would be a good idea to buy one of these? They both guarantee they work and the 02 has a 14 day return policy. Let me know? Thanks.

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

There are already 3 holes that doesn't have bolts in them. As long as they guarantee them, just make sure the 14 days is from when you receive it not when you place order, I would get the 2001. Oh I almost forgot mine was already like that but it is an old one when they made tools to last and not make you buy them a lot of times to make more money off of you. I would say it is from the 70's the bolt is 3/4 inch and I think the forks are actually cast iron not the cheap aluminum stuff the newer ones are made of.
I'm sorry I know I have a tendency to over explain things sometimes but I hate when someone try's to explain things to me and they don't give me enough information and I have to go ask them again.


THOMAS

 

[rhinoexpress]

I had some time to work on the KQ tonight and checked the timing. It was in fact in time. I checked the cam and the lines were lined up with the head as you said it should be. I did pull the valve cover off to see if the timing chain was tight and it was. I put the valve cover back on and loosened the valves as you said to and tried to start it. Nothing. Of course I am not giving up because I took the pull starter off to see how the starter cup turns. As the starter was spinning the pull starter cup did not turn for a while and then it finally started to engage but very slowly. It turned over a few times but I could tell it was working the starter over pretty hard so I stopped at this point. So now I am waiting on the owner to get me the money to order a new starter clutch or the used one. Just one of them to correct this problem. I still can't believe how hard it is to turn the engine over. No worries on the explanation, I am the same way. I hate asking people twice about how to do something. Thanks for being thorough about the explanations. I always appreciate the advice.

 

[TUBBYTUBB]

I bet you will find that when you pull the clutch off and you look at the gear that is behind it it will be galled up, that will explain what is causing it to whine/slip when you turn it over. Since it has a new rebuild on it and if the valves are set right, and it sounds like they are, that is the reason that it is so hard to pull mine is the exact same way. Thank goodness mine has a really good starter on it because even in the morning when it is in the teen's I can go out there and just barely tap the starter button it cranks right up, although I will have to crank it up a couple of times until the fuel pump builds enough pressure to keep it running. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't giving you too much info because I wasn't sure how much experience you have on working on ATV's and just wanted to make sure you had enough info. Hopefully he will get you the money soon that way you can get this thing going for him and be done with it.



THOMAS