Hello everyone I am new to the forum. I am working a Suzuki King Quad 300 4X4 for a family member and I am dealing with several issues. First the atv has been in storage for several years. I had to buy a used fuel petcock for it and install it. It works great and the fuel pump is pumping fuel just fine. The atv has great spark no issues there. I pulled the carb off initially and cleaned it. The problem I am having is the King Quad is hard to start. I put in a new battery and it would take at least 2-3 minutes to start! Once I got it running it ran fine. Yesterday I removed the carb again and cleaned everything again and it is worse now. I had to turn the idle screw in the whole way for it to idle. Now it won't start or run unless I take the boot off between the carb and air box. And when you hit the top end of the throttle range it smokes really bad. I checked the intake boot and it does have some cracks in it but I sprayed starter fluid around it and nothing happened? I am not sure if the cracked intake boot would cause the carb to no operate properly or not? I tore the carb completely apart and cleaned all of the jets, air jets and made sure all carb passages were completely cleaned. I adjust the air/fuel mixture screw out 1.5 turns and tried it at 2 turns it didn't seen to make a difference in operation. I tried several times to reinstall the boot between the air box and carb and it shuts off immediately every time. I checked the air box, screen, and air intake tube for any obstructions and I did not find anything. I checked the choke function and it is working properly. I also double checked the jet placement and made sure I didn't switch the choke and main jet, no problems there. So I am at a lose now and need help desperately. I did check the air filter it is fine too. A local motorcycle mechanic said the intake boot has to be the culprit but before buying another one I need to find out if anyone else has suggestions on the matter. Thanks in advance for all of your help!
Suzuki 300 King Quad 4X4 carb issues?
rhinoexpress
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alright so i did a compression and leakdown test just now. the compression test showed that i have about 110 psi of compression and the leakdown test showed that i am at about 54% leakage. so for an 85 lt230ge what do those results yield? do i need to tear down the motor? or is my starting problem probably still in the carb?
hey guys i just pulled the head off and was inspecting my valves and piston. here are some pics.
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do the valves and the piston look like they need to be replaced? i did a leakdown test earlier before pulling the head and i was at 54% leakage and my compression was at 110 psi. im assuming that the valves are about shot but i really dont now what bad valves look like. and if you can tell the piston has some really crusty stuff built up on top of it. lol bad desciption but thats what it is lol. thanks in advance.
do the valves and the piston look like they need to be replaced? i did a leakdown test earlier before pulling the head and i was at 54% leakage and my compression was at 110 psi. im assuming that the valves are about shot but i really dont now what bad valves look like. and if you can tell the piston has some really crusty stuff built up on top of it. lol bad desciption but thats what it is lol. thanks in advance.
Joined
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2,918 Posts
Pull the valves, especially the intake, and get some photos of the face of it and post them. Depending on how many miles is on it I would bet it looks like the photo below.
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You see how the edge is smooth without the common 3 angles on it, That is bad and it means that the valve is actually starting to seat inside of the valve seat and that will cause more problems than I can list, Start by pulling the intake like I said and we can go from there. The piston also looks pretty bad and if it were me I would replace it and have it bored to the next size up that would "round" the cylinder out again and that will definitely help and give you a really good starting point to get it operating correctly.
THOMAS
You see how the edge is smooth without the common 3 angles on it, That is bad and it means that the valve is actually starting to seat inside of the valve seat and that will cause more problems than I can list, Start by pulling the intake like I said and we can go from there. The piston also looks pretty bad and if it were me I would replace it and have it bored to the next size up that would "round" the cylinder out again and that will definitely help and give you a really good starting point to get it operating correctly.
THOMAS
thanks for the advice tub. i will deff have the valves replaced. just gotta ty and make my own spring compressor lol. but you think i need to have the cylinder bored most likely or just replace the piston? ill prolly have it bored but not sure if its totally necessary. Hopefully all this work will fix my starting issue. ill keep posting here with updates and pics of my progress, hopefully ill get those valves loose tomorrow 
Joined
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2,918 Posts
It may not be 100% necessary but you might as well do it while you have it apart, that way you will know what you have and you won't have to worry about it. Plus if you go ahead and have it bored you are sure to have the max compression possible along with more power when you do get it back together and you just won't have to worry about it again for a long time. Do it right the first time that way you know what you have. But it isn't my money just my opinion.
THOMAS
THOMAS
hey just an update, got the valves out and the intake surprisingly looks like its still got the angles but im going to replace them both anyways. When i get paid tomorrow im gonna order everything, the piston and valves, should i also buy gaskets for the top end? they look like theyre in good shape still but you never know lol.
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yup my dad has the necessary tools at work to bore it so im gonna send it to work with him this week and have him bore it to 66.25mm or .010 over and then buy all new top end gaskets and valves, then hopefully this thing will start on first push of the button lol. ill keep ya updated
well i ran into a problem today. i took the piston off and the flywheel to try and prep everything for reassembly next week. when i took the piston off this is what i found
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it appears that the damn thing broke off somehow and i found a few pieces floating around the crank and was able to pick em out. my question is do i need to split the case now to remove all foreign debris that is most likely floating around in there?
also when i pulled the flywheel off my timing chain was bunched up at the bottom of the case and i think it jammed against some guide looking thing thats aprt of the case and it shaved it off a little bit
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is it gonna be ok if i file it down and make it smooth or did i MESS up my case real bad now?
it appears that the damn thing broke off somehow and i found a few pieces floating around the crank and was able to pick em out. my question is do i need to split the case now to remove all foreign debris that is most likely floating around in there?
also when i pulled the flywheel off my timing chain was bunched up at the bottom of the case and i think it jammed against some guide looking thing thats aprt of the case and it shaved it off a little bit
is it gonna be ok if i file it down and make it smooth or did i MESS up my case real bad now?
2000 King Quad carb tuning
I must not be seeing the address to that site on your post, unless you forgot to post it.
I ordered a carb kit for it, but would like to know how to tune the carb/machine once I get it put back together.
I have the BSR 29 mikuni carb, the carb shows 39D2 L951 for identification marks.
When I do a search it seems like the BSR 29 does not even exisit, I cannot find it on the Mikuni site or any other site. I have found the basic diagram "Microfiche", but I am looking for more information so I can get the quad dialed in without spending 80.00 plus for a factory service manual.
Any ideas web sites or help would be great
Could this be a carb just specific to Suzuki? It does say Mikuni on it though
Thanks
gunn1
I must not be seeing the address to that site on your post, unless you forgot to post it.
I ordered a carb kit for it, but would like to know how to tune the carb/machine once I get it put back together.
I have the BSR 29 mikuni carb, the carb shows 39D2 L951 for identification marks.
When I do a search it seems like the BSR 29 does not even exisit, I cannot find it on the Mikuni site or any other site. I have found the basic diagram "Microfiche", but I am looking for more information so I can get the quad dialed in without spending 80.00 plus for a factory service manual.
Any ideas web sites or help would be great
Could this be a carb just specific to Suzuki? It does say Mikuni on it though
Thanks
gunn1
Joined
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2,918 Posts
First of all PLEASE watch the language(no other warning will be given). I would definitely make sure that you get all the pieces out of the case, how you do that is completely up to you. That part down in the bottom is just a guide for the Chain Guide not a lot to worry about there.
THOMAS
THOMAS
Joined
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2,918 Posts
No problem sitting around in person talking like that is cool but not on here, Kids may be trying to learn stuff and we just don't need that kind of attention especially since we are trying to grow as a forum, NO HARD FEELINGS. That would probably be the best thing to do that way you can be sure to get everything and not cause further problems down the road.
THOMAS
THOMAS
I have a 1999 Suzuki king quad. The carb has been rebuilt, petcock cleaned and fuel pump cleaned, I found no issues with the diaphragm, i mixed sea foam in with the gas to help clean it up, it will idle fine but it would not run unless it sits there idling for about 20 minutes. now it won't run unless the lights are on. Any ideas???
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