I would start with this Find out what notch your metering rod is set at it could be down further than it's supposed to be. Check valve lash again, and then check the vacuum hose on the fuel pump see if it is sucking fuel instead of just air.

Almost forgot Welcome to the Forum.



THOMAS

 

The vacuum hose it's plugged off on carb and petcock.

I'll check into the metering rod.

I have read couple threads with similar symptoms (no resolution ever confirmed in the end). One suggested stretched timing chain (common on these?).

Other was pickup coil in stator messing up (don't think this is issue, seem to be getting a consistent spark).

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That could be the ecu, I would honestly use the correct one. Try ruling out every possible thing that plays into the operation of an engine.
Welcome to the forum.

 

Wish I had access to the correct ecu. But I hate to shell out couple hundred for something that might not fix it.

I was worried about the ignition map being different. But after looking up the camshafts and them being the same p/n. And ignition timing specs being the same for 99-02 I am doubting that the ecu is the problem.


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Check the voltage at the battery while running ....If it's much over 14.7v .....the reg/rectifier could be causing the ignition system to break down.

 

Voltage running 13.7 - 14.0

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Looks good....rule that out

 

Needle is in middle notch. Dropping needle to top notch did notch change condition much. Returned it to middle notch.
Washers and spacer are assembled as parts page shows.

Diaphragm looks in good condition

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Checked my valve timing. and wanted to check timing chain for stretching.
Remove the TDC plug, removed valve cover. Lined up my TDC mark in the window. My camshaft hash marks were slightly clockwise from parallel with cover mating surface. When I would turn crank till camshaft hash marks are aligned the TDC mark would not be visible in window anymore.

So i took tensioner loose, removed gear and rolled camshaft back a tooth. Reinstall gear and tensioner and check timing, rolled engine over several times by hand to let tensioner adjust. The camshaft hash marks were counter clockwise. (They are farther off than previously).

Either way I slapped valve cover back on too see how it would run.
Engine is slight bit boggish when cold, when its warm it will actually rev up seemingly normal. Anyways engine seems to operate more normal overall.
Stumbles slight bit of idle.

I don't feel like its fixed but an update and something changed none the less.
Doesn't seem like the cam chain is stretched to me, I couldn't make it jump a tooth with tensioner out without removing camshaft gear.

So advancing the valve timing ahead has made the engine rev noticeably smoother.