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I’ve used sta-bil for years and never had any problems in the spring. Everything fires right up.
I too have seen that project farm video, not very believable.
I watched one of his videos where he said sta-bil was garbage. Then at the end he mentioned the lucas stuff and said he was going to test it i think. I did not watch the Lucas video but i seen it last night and apparently it is garbage as well. Oh well... i dont let fuel sit in it for 9 months maybe 3 months tops and in a garage so im not too worried about water getting into the fuel.

I had my jeep stored for 9 years without starting it up. I put some Seafoam in the tank when i stored it but i didn't think i would let it sit 9 years. But when i fired it up and it ran surprisingly well for having 9 year old fuel in it. The exhaust smelled really bad and stale but it ran strong. There was only about 1/8 a tank in it and i ran it all out before i put fresh gas in it just to get as much out as i could. Maybe i swill switch back to seafoam.
 

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Hi fellas. New to the forum here. But by far the Yoshimura rs2 exhaust for my 2019 750. Best of both worlds as with the sparky in its almost stock sounding. Then with the sparky out she lets out a nasty deep tone that’s honestly a bit louder then a performance series hmf pipe. I paired it with the hmf fuel optimizer.
 

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Hi fellas. New to the forum here. But by far the Yoshimura rs2 exhaust for my 2019 750. Best of both worlds as with the sparky in its almost stock sounding. Then with the sparky out she lets out a nasty deep tone that’s honestly a bit louder then a performance series hmf pipe. I paired it with the hmf fuel optimizer.
Where did you buy a Yoshimura rs2 ? I was looking for one and Yoshimura quit making them years ago. I found one in stock in Australia but after shipping it would have been over $700.
 

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Where did you buy a Yoshimura rs2 ? I was looking for one and Yoshimura quit making them years ago. I found one in stock in Australia but after shipping it would have been over $700.
Best bet is ebay its for the 05-07 700s but the exhaust systems have bin unchanged shape and diameter wise since the 700 so it bolts right up by far way more durable system then any hmf. Bike seems to react better to the yoshi as well.
 

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Best bet is ebay its for the 05-07 700s but the exhaust systems have bin unchanged shape and diameter wise since the 700 so it bolts right up by far way more durable system then any hmf. Bike seems to react better to the yoshi as well.

I have been stalking ebay looking for one and so far i have found nothing. I started looking at other pipes like Barkers and Big Gun and I'm not sure which is better. I am really bummed Yoshimura dont make pipes for utility quads anymore.

This is the only Yoshi i can find, maybe it's not that bad of a deal. I really don't like dealing with customs though

 

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I have been stalking ebay looking for one and so far i have found nothing. I started looking at other pipes like Barkers and Big Gun and I'm not sure which is better. I am really bummed Yoshimura dont make pipes for utility quads anymore.

Yea i just took a look i geuss your right they must of sold them all out. Thats pretty expensive for that yoshi. I only paid 300 for mine. At the start of the summer i didn’t realize how rare these pipes are.

This is the only Yoshi i can find, maybe it's not that bad of a deal. I really don't like dealing with customs though

 

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[QUOTE="KangKwad, post: 217898, just do not buy the hmf performance series exhaust it’s absolutely junk. Didnt even come with a proper gasket for where it meets your header pipe. So nasty exhaust leak. Hmf would not send or clue in it needed a gasket. Before my yoshi thats what i ran. Tuned and everything somehow the exhaust system split in half on me twice in less then 1 year. Yes it was covered under warranty but come on. That’s redicules. If you were to get a hmf get the titan xl series. Its stainless steel and has better mounting brackets over the aluminum performance series junk. Once i threw the yoshi on thats rubber mounted. Mid pipe and muffler are two separate peices with springs to hold it in place. Which gives it way more structure durability being able to have these flex points. the spark arrestor works as a quiet core the way its designed so no need to spend the extra cash on one like you would have to with other companies. Also yoshi provided it with the proper exhaust gasket as well its actually a kawi exhaust gasket.
 

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Today I removed the ricochet skid plates that I installed about a year ago just to look around and change the oil. A good bit of water came out of the frame due to some mud and the plates covering the drain holes. This bothers me because I currently have an 07 grizzly with a rusted and cracked frame that corroded badly because of the same skid plate issues holding in water.
I'm trying to think of a way to keep the plates from making contact with the frame at the holes and blocking them. I thought about drilling holes in the plates where the drains are but not sure how the locate the drain holes. Any ideas?
 

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I was not aware that the frame had drain holes. I have to take my Ricochet skids off soon to put my snow plow mount on. I guess i should take a look to see what i could do with it. I wash my skids out after i play in mud though so that probbaly helps.
 

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Washing does not help. The plate is tight up against the frame blocking most of the holes. There needs to be some space between the frame and plate to let water out.
 

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Washing does not help. The plate is tight up against the frame blocking most of the holes. There needs to be some space between the frame and plate to let water out.

Are you saying that there are drain holes in the frame to let water out of the inside of the frame?

Or are you saying that the skid plate traps mud which will not allow water out of the skid plate?

Last riding trip i went on my skid was full of mud so i parked on a hill and flushed all of the mud out with a garden hose. And after i wash it i always take it on a ride to get any water thats collected anywhere to run out. Then i park it in a garage and a day later everything is dry. Unless you are saying there is still water inside of the frame tubes because there are holes in them that cant drain.

And if that is the case i suddenly regret buying Ricochet skids and i guess i need to start saving up to buy some Suzuki skids since they bolt to the factory skid attachment points. And if that is the case I'm out over $500 :mad:
 

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Yes there are maybe 8 drain holes along the very
bottom of the frame tubes. They are about 1/8” and are probably too small. It’s not just ricochet and King Quads. It seems to be a problem with a lot of ATV’s like my grizzly700 with a rotted frame. The aluminum Suzuki skid plates mount the same way so that won’t help.
Sure would be nice if they used the frame mounts like the plastic originals
 

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Yes there are maybe 8 drain holes along the very
bottom of the frame tubes. They are about 1/8” and are probably too small. It’s not just ricochet and King Quads. It seems to be a problem with a lot of ATV’s like my grizzly700 with a rotted frame. The aluminum Suzuki skid plates mount the same way so that won’t help.
Sure would be nice if they used the frame mounts like the plastic originals

Well I need to look at the frame on mine when i pull the skids off of it to try and get my snow plow mount figured out. I use products like Wool Wax, Fluid Film, bar and chain oil and home made under coating to spray on my Toyotas during the winter months to prevent rust. But oil based stuff is messy and i would not want to spray it on my ATV. But there are wax based products made by 3M and Cosmoline which i would prefer to use on an ATV if you can get a wand to fit down the frame rails.



 

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This is all good info! I have not noticed that there are drain holes in the frame. It is something I will definately keep an eye on next time I'm under there cleaning or servicing. I still have just the stock plastic skid plate.
 

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I was looking at a suzuki parts image of the frame just to see what frame rails i know i can coat the insides of with wax easily. I noticed when i was installing my skid plates that the front frame sections had holes in the front and i was thinking about smearing some black RTV over them to keep mud and water from getting in. But there might be drain holes in the bottom that i never noticed. But the front frame sections would be really easy to coat with cavity wax because they are not that long.

The rear sections are VERY long and i know you can get to them from the end by removing the skid plate bolts. But you can only reach as far as the longest wand they sell for cavity wax. So unless you can find a series of drain holes and manage to feed the wand into them you wont be able to do the entire tube. And then there is a series of cross members that i wonder if they have drain holes.

Just pondering how to treat them before i remove the skids, seems doable though.

Font Slope Parallel Auto part Naval architecture
 

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I’ve sprayed fluid film in from the front and rear of the bottom frame tubes with the extension gadget. The red plastic straw barely fits in the drain holes along the bottom.
 

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This is all good info! I have not noticed that there are drain holes in the frame. It is something I will definately keep an eye on next time I'm under there cleaning or servicing. I still have just the stock plastic skid plate.
I don’t think the stock plastic skid plates have this problem. As long as it does not contact the frame at the drain holes it should be fine.


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So, installed Moose Spring Wedges today. They fit perfectly and went in real easy. I was getting a lot of front end sag last year during plowing season, so I figured I'd give these a shot. I put 1 wedge each in each front spring and then cranked the pre-load on the front springs to the stiffest setting. Then I added a few lbs pressure to the front tires. I hooked the plow up and it feels Mint. Only a little sag going on now compared to the front end really dragging last year. Success!!
 
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