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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2011 suzuki King quad 400 ASI "(LT-A400F)" that I have been fighting with for a week now. It is used on a farm for irrigation so its around water and mud everyday. It had 8000 miles and around 500 hours It started off with the machine quitting when hot and not starting up until it cooled down. It would just crank and back fire if you tried to start it hot. Well the other day it quit completely and I decided to take a look into it. The first thing I found was that the fuel pump was not working, so I took another fuel pump off another king quad 400 ASi. It will now start and idle but wont hold a load "meaning it wont hardly go anywhere without dying if I try to drive it". If I go full throttle it will fall on its face and die. If I slowly raise the throttle from idle it will increase in RPM but will begin to backfire and die if I continue giving throttle. SOOO I have put on another fuel pump "which always puts out 40 PSI no matter the throttle so far", Another TPS, new spark plug, cleaned air filter, checked compression 145 psi "throttle open, choke open, and charged battery", cleaned spark arrestor, and switched the computer. All of those parts were from a four wheeler...."same model everything".. thats runs fine. So I am left with maybe the injector which I used a noid injector light and its flashing fine and I pulled the throttle boot off and can see the injector pulsing fuel out. I also might have another sensor somewhere I dont know of on this machine.

So my question is WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT! If anyone knows anything that it might be please give me advise, because I am sick of this four-wheeler

The machine did have some oil in the air filter housing between the metal screen and the air filter if that helps at all. I would say there was only a few ounces which was most likely from the crank breather because the filter may have been a little plugged.

Thanks

Trav
 

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Are you sure you set the TPS correctly?



THOMAS
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No I am not, but the bike will only run in one position. I put the old TPS on the bike that runs good and it is set almost in middle and runs fine. The bike that isnt working right is shifted all the way to the outer edge, if its not it wont start/run.

Thanks for the reply!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I saw that video, but mine does not have the same programing. If i jump those wires nothing happens. I read on another forum that only a scan tool from the dealership can pick up codes on 2011's.
Yet on the other four-wheeler it is was obvious where the TPS should be adjusted because it only runs in one spot to. If I put the put the TPS in the same spot the running four-wheeler is set to it wont run....if that makes sence. So I dont know what to think.
 

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Alright sorry about that, I wasn't trying to waste your time. I'm racking my brain trying to figure this one out but in my defense I have already been awake about 36 hours with only 1.5 hours of sleep, Not a good ratio. I will try to think about this one some more and reply back as soo as I can think of something if that is OK.



THOMAS
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey no problem, I appreciate your advice and i understand the sleep thing! I also forgot to mention that I pulled the tank off and cleaned it out and put new fuel in it.
 

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Hmm, if it was a 2 stroke, I'd say you have a busted piston skirt...but with 4 strokes it wouldn't make that much of a difference.

The only thing I can think of is slow reacting valves? Meaning, they move, but not quick enough. Just worked on a 185cc 4 stroke that the exhaust valve was operating, but slowly. When I took it apart the valve was difficult to slide out, like the lube had turned to peanut butter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
HMM thats weird! Did you still have good compression with the valves being sticky? I would think you would have lower compression with a valve closing to slow/opening. I am more of a diesel mechanic than anything, so excuse these questions if they sound stupid.
Is there a chance the coil will perform fine at idle, but not as well at higher rpm's. I do get a good loud snap when I check for spark, so its kind of weird. I believe its all tied in together with the original problem. That something did not like to work when it got hot and now it wont work hardly at all.

Once again thanks for the responses!
 

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Since they were just sticky, once in a while it would actually be closed so the compression looked fine since compression testers have a one way valve, the best stroke wins.
 

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Loud snap? Like electrical? Maybe the plug wire or cap is worn down? Had a snowmobile that the cap on the coil side had a hole in it and the spark was leaping across the coil to ground. Didn't find it until I had all the lights off in the garage and pulled it over.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok I finally got it figured out. After switching out the map sensor "did not do anything", I put everything back together and started from scratch again. It would idle fine, but as soon as it was given throttle it would bog and die. I took off the air filter and sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body as I revved the engine and it ran fine. No bogging and no backfire! So I pulled off the injector which took forever because someone decided to put cheap screws that hold it down and they stripped right out. So I spent almost an hour carefully grinding off the top of the screws on the injector, until the injector popped out of the bracket. So be warned, pull fuel tank all the way off and make sure the screw driver fits perfectly and press down hard!!!! If not good luck! I then hooked a clear spare fuel line to the tip of the injector and put carb cleaner into the hose. Then applied 40 PSI to the hose, with the injector plugged into the harness and cranked the engine until all the cleaner was gone. I did this 3 times and the last time I was getting a lot of fuel coming out of the inlet. I then turned the injector around, ran fuel through the inlet side and had a way better spray pattern than before. Put everything back together "besides the injector screws that I need to buy/make" and Wahlla it works great!

My next question....yes there is more....my old fuel pump will run only intermittently. I took it apart and there are three different connections until it gets to the actual pump. I believe the intermittent connection failure is inside of the pump itself. The dealership wants $500 for it which I really don't want to do!

Here is what the pump looks like all together.

http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/5059ea32f8700221d46cf02c/fuel-pump

Inside of the pump housing the pump looks like this.

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1063530823_4/Free-Shipping-New-Auto-Fuel-Pump-FP-HFP-382-Kit-For-Suzuki-King-Quad-450-500.jpg

Does anyone know if I can just buy a fuel pump like this and install into the housing, or has anyone done this. Any advise would be helpful!

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are you sure you set the TPS correctly?



THOMAS
Once I got the Fuel injector cleaned, I had to readjust the TPS in order for it to idle again. So the injector flow makes a huge difference with the TPS position as well. In fact it is adjusted to the same spot as the good running four-wheeler.
 

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Once I got the Fuel injector cleaned, I had to readjust the TPS in order for it to idle again. So the injector flow makes a huge difference with the TPS position as well. In fact it is adjusted to the same spot as the good running four-wheeler.
Thanks I had the same problem on mine. Your post helped me fix mine:):D(y)
 
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