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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks.
Working on getting my old 92 250 Quadrunner (LT-4FWD) running again. Its been about 5 years. Anyhow, my last question was regarding putting in my new aftermarket fuel shut off valve and installing an inline fuel filter. Managed to get it to turn over and run for a few seconds several times. However, today the (new) oil started spewing out from the oil strainer cap. I'd replaced the 3 nuts and one had to be non standard with some locktite on it. The weak point obviously. Think that bolt (inside crankcase cover) has to come out and be replaced. Any advice re removing, replacing and reinstalling this bolt?
Thanks as always.
 

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Those are actually complete threaded rods that screw into the crankcase. I know this because I overtightened one of the nuts once and when I went to do my next oil change the nut didn’t come off. But the whole rod did with along with the nut still on it. Also keep in mind that there are two o-rings in behind the oil filter cover. One larger one o-ring on the inside off the cap, and one smaller one that’s situated behind the oil filter. I’m assuming your talking about this and not the oil strainer under the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those are actually complete threaded rods that screw into the crankcase. I know this because I overtightened one of the nuts once and when I went to do my next oil change the nut didn’t come off. But the whole rod did with along with the nut still on it. Also keep in mind that there are two o-rings in behind the oil filter cover. One larger one o-ring on the inside off the cap, and one smaller one that’s situated behind the oil filter. I’m assuming your talking about this and not the oil strainer under the bike.
Aware of both gaskets thanks. Re oil filter cap, not strainer. Guess I'll heat up the stud (rod) with a blow torch and some WD40 to see if I can gently tease it out. Way to small to tap and drill out. Thank you
 

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Is the stud still partially sticking out..?
 

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Can you grab it with a pair of vise-grips or possibly a extraction tool of some type..? If you combine heat with a pair of vise-grips you should be able to back it out. And it’s standard threads, righty tighty lefty loosey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey admin.
Not too much sticking out. Extremely small stud. If I break it....well...I don't even want to think about it. However, I may not have any other choice but to follow your advice. I also checked in my Clymers bible and from the right casing diagram, it appears there is no replacement available. If there is an alternative I suppose a specialized nuts & bolts retailer may have a match of some kind.
Alternatively, I am tempted to re thread the stud with my tap and die set. My major concern in doing so would be weakening an already thin stud and attaching a much smaller bolt. I'm sure your quite familiar with the schemaric Nonetheless, I've attached right side casing with oil filter cover diagram. Lower, left stud/bolt is my new nemesis!

Thank you once more for your advice.
 

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First off, I don’t need to be referred to as hey Admin. I do have a username. I understand your frustration and not being sure how to proceed. I offered a suggestion, now if it’ll work is a different story. It’s up to you to decide if you want to take a chance on trying to remove it using this method or not. If your unsure on how to proceed, try calling your nearest Suzuki dealer and asking then what they’re recommend to safely remove it. They may have a better method of removing then I suggested.

As for your Clymer manual stating there’s no replacement stud, well it’s incorrect. According to Mr. Cycles (1992 Suzuki LT-4WD Oil Pump - Fuel Pump | MRCycles), the stud is replaceable. Look at the following pic bellow. Your looking for part #20 in the parts diagram. So if you click on my link then scroll down the parts fiche to Bart #20, your see it’s still available and only costs $2.00.

Font Motor vehicle Art Automotive design Cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First off, I don’t need to be referred to as hey Admin. I do have a username. I understand your frustration and not being sure how to proceed. I offered a suggestion, now if it’ll work is a different story. It’s up to you to decide if you want to take a chance on trying to remove it using this method or not. If your unsure on how to proceed, try calling your nearest Suzuki dealer and asking then what they’re recommend to safely remove it. They may have a better method of removing then I suggested.

As for your Clymer manual stating there’s no replacement stud, well it’s incorrect. According to Mr. Cycles (1992 Suzuki LT-4WD Oil Pump - Fuel Pump | MRCycles), the stud is replaceable. Look at the following pic bellow. Your looking for part #20 in the parts diagram. So if you click on my link then scroll down the parts fiche to Bart #20, your see it’s still available and only costs $2.00.

View attachment 21690
My apologies. I didnt use "ajl719"
First off, I don’t need to be referred to as hey Admin. I do have a username. I understand your frustration and not being sure how to proceed. I offered a suggestion, now if it’ll work is a different story. It’s up to you to decide if you want to take a chance on trying to remove it using this method or not. If your unsure on how to proceed, try calling your nearest Suzuki dealer and asking then what they’re recommend to safely remove it. They may have a better method of removing then I suggested.

As for your Clymer manual stating there’s no replacement stud, well it’s incorrect. According to Mr. Cycles (1992 Suzuki LT-4WD Oil Pump - Fuel Pump | MRCycles), the stud is replaceable. Look at the following pic bellow. Your looking for part #20 in the parts diagram. So if you click on my link then scroll down the parts fiche to Bart #20, your see it’s still available and only costs $2.00.

View attachment 21690
Sorry. I used "admin" because you are an administrator after all. "ajl719" is not a real name after all. Its an anonymous user I.D. correct? My name is "Mike" just to be fair.
Thanks for the info re the stud. I looked online at bikebanditt.com and in their schematic I didnt see it. I'll try Mr.Cycles.com. Unfamiliar with that sellet. Will heat her up and gently tease it out with vise grips if I get replacement.
Sorry about "hey admin" thing and thanks for following up with me despite it.
Thanks again and have a great weekend.

Mike (aka Delftblue60)
 

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Sorry, my apologies. Just sounded like you were irritated. I’ve never had someone reply to me with “Hey Admin”, then proceed with a explanation. Again, my apologies. And you are indeed correct, Bike Bandit doesn’t appears to have any of those parts. Though I also checked Partszilla, and they show that part within their diagram but it’s not listed within their parts fiche.

Another option is looking on (https://www.powersportsnation.com/). They sell used parts and may have the stud your looking for. One of our more senior members TCIII has mentioned that their inventory is constantly changing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If there is enough sticking out weld a nut on it then screw it out
Thanks. Will definitely take it into consideration. No thread left at the nut end (which is the real problem in this case) however if all else fails your advice is the last resort. I don't weld or own a welder unfortunately. May have to get it to a welding shop in this case.
Thanks again.
 

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My buddy does the same thing if the head of a bolt breaks off etc. He actually had two mechanical style jacks that used those flimsy folding cranking rods to raise and lower it. Well it took forever to raise and lower the dang thing so he welded a nut to the jack and now uses his impact to do it. Jack raises and lowers in less 10 seconds now. I also had to remove my truck bed as my front and middle rails on the bed rotted out.

And unlike typical beds where the bolts securing the bed to the frame and bolted from the top down. Mine is from the bottom up and screws into the bed’s frame rails. So because I had to replace two of the rails, and one of the rails required new threaded mounting holes. He drilled out a hole at the bottom of the square tubing on each side then welded a nut inside to give the mounting bolts a new place to screw into. Saved me around $2500 if I would of simply replaced the whole bed with a second hand one.

Amazing the things a welder can do for you. Kinda wish I knew how to weld. Then again if I ever need any welding done I simply go over to my buddy’s and he’s more the happy to help me out. Nice to have friends like that sometimes. Good luck with the stud removal.
 
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