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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need to vent.... what a pain to work on this Suzuki! The Suzuki repair manual says you need to remove the motor for this repair, and I am starting to believe them! Removed the rear rack, rear fenders, left frame bar, and exhaust so far... I removed the 2 bolts from the header pipe, but the guards on the header and driveline to the front end make it locked in place. With it 'loose' is there enough play to remove the left side cover? Still need to unhook the bracket and arm for the transmission range shifter if I recall.... seems like to get to anything to fix on this thing, you need to untangle all the parts wrapped around it!

Bruce
 

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Unfortunately I’m not at all familiar with the process, but hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in soon. Just need to be a bit patient as some of our more knowledgeable members only log onto the Forum here and there.
 

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I figured as much. Just thought I’d mention it anyway incase you don’t get a immediate reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Need to vent.... what a pain to work on this Suzuki! The Suzuki repair manual says you need to remove the motor for this repair, and I am starting to believe them! Removed the rear rack, rear fenders, left frame bar, and exhaust so far... I removed the 2 bolts from the header pipe, but the guards on the header and driveline to the front end make it locked in place. With it 'loose' is there enough play to remove the left side cover? Still need to unhook the bracket and arm for the transmission range shifter if I recall.... seems like to get to anything to fix on this thing, you need to untangle all the parts wrapped around it!

Bruce
UPDATE: I found that since I already had the motor mount bolt out to remove the side frame rail, I removed another one in the rear. The bottom rear motor munt, I loosened up. I put a jack under the front of the motor and carefully lifted it up. It rocked up enough to remove the header pipe. However, the exhaust studs came out of the head when I removed them. Hopefully when I put the new studs in, I will be able to get the head pipe back on in the same manner.

I have all the bolts from the side cover off... hoping to pop it off a day here soon over Christmas break. The rest of my family is quarantined for Christmas; so I won't be going anywhere!

Bruce
 

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UPDATE: I found that since I already had the motor mount bolt out to remove the side frame rail, I removed another one in the rear. The bottom rear motor munt, I loosened up. I put a jack under the front of the motor and carefully lifted it up. It rocked up enough to remove the header pipe. However, the exhaust studs came out of the head when I removed them. Hopefully when I put the new studs in, I will be able to get the head pipe back on in the same manner.

I have all the bolts from the side cover off... hoping to pop it off a day here soon over Christmas break. The rest of my family is quarantined for Christmas; so I won't be going anywhere!

Bruce
Good luck with the family/quarantine and the project. Hopefully it all works out .

I see you are from NY. It appears that we are yet again in bad shape. I personally have multiple friends , business associates, former employees and acquaintances that are either currently positive (non symptomatic) quarantined, positive and symptomatic, have family members that are positive, or their family members are quarantined.

Not good at all. Good luck with everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I got the side cover off, learned how to put the subtransmission back together. I took the nut off the crank. Grabbed the new flywheel puller. Put the small piece on to protect the crank shaft end, and the flywheel fell off on its own??? So that was weird. I then looked and tested the starter one way clutch. It wasn't in pieces like I had seen on others on YouTube. It only turns in the one correct direction as indicated by the arrow. However, it looks like maybe it is slipping under load? Is that possible?

I know that it was very difficult to pull start since I bought it back in 2001. The guy I bought from had the receipts on a recent engine rebuild by our local Suzuki dealer in the $1200 range because they put the oil filter in backwards. Anyhow, I am trying to make it easier for my kids to ride. I think I verified that the starter clutch was bad by removing the electric starter it would pull start normal...

I took pictures of the one way clutch and the Caltric replacement parts I bought off Amazon. Looking closer, appears to be heavy wear on the metal pieces in the clutch and scratches on the starter gear surface that goes inside the clutch. I am going to replace the OEM parts with the CALTRIC brand parts off Amazon.

However, I found some other discerning things behind the flywheel. Looks like the center case has cracks, and one broken off tab with the other 2 worn? Also it looks like some scraping inside by the starter gear at one point to the right. Also some discoloring on the crankshaft and back of starter clutch Automotive tire Rim Plumbing Gas Automotive wheel system
Product Camera lens Camera accessory Automotive tire Cameras & optics
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Rim Bicycle part
Wheel Tire Light Automotive tire Gear
Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Automotive tire Nickel Rim
Automotive tire Product Gear Crankset Bicycle part
Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Auto part Sound box
?

Anyhow, take a look at the pictures and throw advice my way....

Bruce

Automotive tire Product Gear Crankset Bicycle part

Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Auto part Sound box

Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Automotive tire Nickel Rim

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Rim Bicycle part

Wheel Tire Light Automotive tire Gear

Product Camera lens Camera accessory Automotive tire Cameras & optics

Automotive tire Rim Plumbing Gas Automotive wheel system
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got the old starter clutch out. Suzuki calls for Thread Lock Super 1303 for those bolts and the crank bolt. What is that in Loctite-ville? 243 I have, but that says medium strength blue. Is 1303 red Loctite?

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got the old starter clutch out. Suzuki calls for Thread Lock Super 1303 for those bolts and the crank bolt. What is that in Loctite-ville? 243 I have, but that says medium strength blue. Is 1303 red Loctite?

Bruce
Spoke with Suzuki dealer, found a picture of Suzuki 1303 and appears that it is equivalent to the Loctite 263 red high strength for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Going to the shop to start reassemble... I have a new side gasket, do I need to put any RTV black in there if I have the gasket? The Suzuki dealer was in there last, and looks like there was some RTV on the bottom part of the gasket I removed. Do not see any evidence of RTV up the sides or top.

Thanks!
Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: I ended up buying a 30mm offset wrench on ebay to hold the flywheel to thourghly torque the flywheel nut. The manual and everyone says 29mm, but for some reason, mine (89 LT4WD) was 30mm.

I bought some Permatex Gasket Tack just enough to keep the gasket on the case as I installed the side cover. I tried a couple times without it, but would never cooperate on the bottom right alignment post/pin. I used it sparingly.

Bruce
 
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