[Grass2mud]

i am about to replace tons of parts on my kq, u-joints being one of them, i can find u-joints easily, but they are all greasable. i feel like those wont hold up to super low gear use. what do yall think?

 

[kenora]

greasable is better, new grease pushes out the contamination..water, dust etc...

 

[Grass2mud]

greasable is better, new grease pushes out the contamination..water, dust etc...

yeah i knew that they r better, but i was more worried about the strength

 

[mudbug]

yeah i knew that they r better, but i was more worried about the strength

What are you doing with that machine that you're concerned about strength?

Pull a joint take it to NAPA or a custom driveline shop and have them cross-reference by the dimensions.

You could contact Tom Wood Custom Driveshaft with the dimensions If they can help you I don't know as they are inclined to build drive lines for 4x4 trucks. They make a joint that's solid and greasable through the caps http://www.4xshaft.com/

CTM also builds solid joints that are greaseable through the caps. But once again they are more into 4x4 trucks but, you won't know until you ask.

Another thing is stronger is not necessarily better what you are doing is moving the weak link to something maybe much more expensive to replace. I would much rather snap a joint than destroy a yoke or worse something in the diff. You can carry a couple of u-joints a heck of a lot easier than a spare driveline.

Just food for thought

 

[Grass2mud]

What are you doing with that machine that you're concerned about strength?

Pull a joint take it to NAPA or a custom driveline shop and have them cross-reference by the dimensions.

You could contact Tom Wood Custom Driveshaft with the dimensions If they can help you I don't know as they are inclined to build drive lines for 4x4 trucks. They make a joint that's solid and greasable through the caps Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

CTM also builds solid joints that are greaseable through the caps. But once again they are more into 4x4 trucks but, you won't know until you ask.

Another thing is stronger is not necessarily better what you are doing is moving the weak link to something maybe much more expensive to replace. I would much rather snap a joint than destroy a yoke or worse something in the diff. You can carry a couple of u-joints a heck of a lot easier than a spare driveline.

Just food for thought

Good point. is it better to go grease through the caps or through the body of the joint

 

[mudbug]

Good point. is it better to go grease through the caps or through the body of the joint

In all honesty, your talking about a 300, I doubt there's enough torque to even worry about it unless you're getting that thing bouncing repeatedly to where the tires come off the ground then make rapid hard traction.

IMO opinion after building and running several offroad rigs that were way overbuilt I would use the greaseable through the caps but not on an ATV even on something as big as a 750. As I said above I think you're wasting time and energy trying to modify a 300 with near bulletproof U-joints with a stock transmission, differentials, and driveline. Something more expensive is going to break.

Just go with the stock U-joints

Your welcome to build your machine the way you want.

 

[Grass2mud]

ok man, thank you for the help. i dont abuse my kq but i just want to make sure i buy a part that wont leave me stranded

 

[ajl719]

The torque on the 300’s are more then you think. Everyone describes them as torque monsters. In super low people describe them as almost being able to pull a house. That’s a little far fetched I think. But it’s the power to weight ratio where it falls flat. The weight of the 300 is far lighter then say a 750 or a 1000. Thus traction becomes an issue when pulling real heavy loads on loose surfaces. As for the u-joints. I have the stock non greaseable u-joints on my 300. I also have over 14,000 kilometres on my 300 and I’ve only ever replaced the rear axles once cause of the u-joints. Like other have said, there’s no need to go overkill on your 300. Stock u-joints or u-joints with serviceable grease fittings will suffice.


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[mudbug]

The torque on the 300’s are more then you think. Everyone describes them as torque monsters. In super low people describe them as almost being able to pull a house. That’s a little far fetched I think. But it’s the power to weight ratio where it falls flat. The weight of the 300 is far lighter then say a 750 or a 1000. Thus traction becomes an issue when pulling real heavy loads on loose surfaces. As for the u-joints. I have the stock non greaseable u-joints on my 300. I also have over 14,000 kilometres on my 300 and I’ve only ever replaced the rear axles once cause of the u-joints. Like other have said, there’s no need to go overkill on your 300. Stock u-joints or u-joints with serviceable grease fittings will suffice.


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Wasn't trying to imply anything or disrespect anyone's ride and I really don't know much about the 300's. I didn't come into riding ATV's until about 6 years ago when I moved east from Arizona. I've had one Polaris Sportsman 500 (what a piece of junk that was) one Kawasaki Prarie 400 and now my two KQ's 2014 400ASI and 2018 500 AXI.

 

[ajl719]

Non taken mudbug. You weren’t being disrespectful at all actually. I was simply pointing out they have more torque then most people think. But going overkill on U-joints isn’t necessary in my opinion. Not on the 300’s unless you plan to do something absolutely stupid with them.


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[TCIII]

This is why KQ 300's have solid u-joints......in low/low 1st gear is 126.548 to 1


King Quad 300
Primary: 3.15 (63/20)
Secondary: 1.125 (18/16)
Final: 3.09 front / 3.647 Rear

Subtrans
High: 1.112
Low: 1.480
Super Low: 3.176

Trans
1st 3.083
2nd 1.933
3rd 1.388
4th 1.095
5th 0.913
Rev 2.833

High Range Overall Ratios
1st 44.309
2nd 27.781
3rd 19.948
4th 15.737
5th 13.122
Rev 40.716

Low Range Overall Ratios
1st 58.972
2nd 36.974
3rd 26.549
4th 20.945
5th 17.464
Rev 54.190

Super Low Overall Ratios
1st 126.548
2nd 79.344
3rd 56.973
4th 44.946
5th 37.476
Rev 116.286

 

[gdowie]

Timely post. I just blew a u joint (and trashed the yokes) on my 2001 lt-f250f. Machine is new to me. Upon inspection, I believe the u joint was a recently installed Chinese greasable unit that OP describes. Clearly not as strong as oem. I'm replacing with oem used off eBay. I really wasn't abusing it too badly... Just towing a USPS mail truck out of a snow bank... I did have chains on all 4 tires. Very pleased at how easily it pulled the truck out. Sad I trashed the yokes trying to get home.

Related, does anyone know if CV axles off some small car could be used as replacements? I just want matching splines, don't care about length, I'm happy to Fab longer A-arms for increased travel and to gain access to automotive supply. of replacements.

 

[440Tim]

TCIII is totally right . Gear reduction multiplies torque.
As far as the u joints I'd get good quality ones . I usually get ones you can grease. I don't think they are any stronger just longer lasting in my opinion. I'd rather pay more and get High quality parts. Good u joints aren't usually too expensive.
I don't think they sell just the u joint though. Might have to take it to a local parts house or shop and see what interchanges . Or meassure and search online .
I just replaced a u joint for my sisters boyfriend . Was like 8 dollars for cheapest and like 30ish for highest . He told me his truck was making a clunky noise and vibrates at speed. I found the bad u joint. Couldn't believe he was driving it like this.

 

[Alaskacabinquad]

Not sure about automotive u joint cross reference, would like to know. However i do know rear brake cylinder is same as 1990 geo metro for $20!

 

[gdowie]

I found an old Post from TCIII where he used GMB 220-0045 u-joints as replacements. Just ordered 4. I guess I will need to tack weld them into the yokes. I also learned that the shake this thing has been making at anything above super low range is likely cause previous owner did not align left and right yokes, or the yokes on the axles. Probably related to the premature u-joint failure as well... Grrr.

 

[OldReliable]

I'll be very eager to hear of these work! I've been looking for a quality inner rear U joint for my 1989 LT-4WD.

I found an old Post from TCIII where he used GMB 220-0045 u-joints as replacements. Just ordered 4. I guess I will need to tack weld them into the yokes. I also learned that the shake this thing has been making at anything above super low range is likely cause previous owner did not align left and right yokes, or the yokes on the axles. Probably related to the premature u-joint failure as well... Grrr.

 

[TCIII]

The ones I wrote about are for the outside u-joint......most of the inside joints are different.....I think there are some models it will fit ( inside) but not all.

The best fit for the outside are ...

POWERTRAIN INDUSTRIES....REAR OUTER U-JOINT best fit....790 x 2.071.....#9951-22

2nd best...

GMB----NOT REAL TIGHT FIT-----.788 X 2.071-------#220-0045----( also listed as #GUN45 by some places)

I would say they are both equal to or better than the OEM joints.


You will need to tack weld a washer that fits in the hole, on the outside to hold them in.( see my old posts )