yeah i knew that they r better, but i was more worried about the strengthgreasable is better, new grease pushes out the contamination..water, dust etc...
What are you doing with that machine that you're concerned about strength?yeah i knew that they r better, but i was more worried about the strength
What are you doing with that machine that you're concerned about strength?
Pull a joint take it to NAPA or a custom driveline shop and have them cross-reference by the dimensions.
You could contact Tom Wood Custom Driveshaft with the dimensions If they can help you I don't know as they are inclined to build drive lines for 4x4 trucks. They make a joint that's solid and greasable through the caps Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
CTM also builds solid joints that are greaseable through the caps. But once again they are more into 4x4 trucks but, you won't know until you ask.
Another thing is stronger is not necessarily better what you are doing is moving the weak link to something maybe much more expensive to replace. I would much rather snap a joint than destroy a yoke or worse something in the diff. You can carry a couple of u-joints a heck of a lot easier than a spare driveline.
Just food for thought
In all honesty, your talking about a 300, I doubt there's enough torque to even worry about it unless you're getting that thing bouncing repeatedly to where the tires come off the ground then make rapid hard traction.Good point. is it better to go grease through the caps or through the body of the joint
Wasn't trying to imply anything or disrespect anyone's ride and I really don't know much about the 300's. I didn't come into riding ATV's until about 6 years ago when I moved east from Arizona. I've had one Polaris Sportsman 500 (what a piece of junk that was) one Kawasaki Prarie 400 and now my two KQ's 2014 400ASI and 2018 500 AXI.The torque on the 300’s are more then you think. Everyone describes them as torque monsters. In super low people describe them as almost being able to pull a house. That’s a little far fetched I think. But it’s the power to weight ratio where it falls flat. The weight of the 300 is far lighter then say a 750 or a 1000. Thus traction becomes an issue when pulling real heavy loads on loose surfaces. As for the u-joints. I have the stock non greaseable u-joints on my 300. I also have over 14,000 kilometres on my 300 and I’ve only ever replaced the rear axles once cause of the u-joints. Like other have said, there’s no need to go overkill on your 300. Stock u-joints or u-joints with serviceable grease fittings will suffice.
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I found an old Post from TCIII where he used GMB 220-0045 u-joints as replacements. Just ordered 4. I guess I will need to tack weld them into the yokes. I also learned that the shake this thing has been making at anything above super low range is likely cause previous owner did not align left and right yokes, or the yokes on the axles. Probably related to the premature u-joint failure as well... Grrr.