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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found this on ebay: Suzuki King Quad Super Kit Shim Mod Clutch Mod COOP45 400 450 500 700 750 | eBay

The way it seems, i can buy all of it for $11 and put in .2, .5, .7, 1, 1.2, 1.5, 1.7, or 2 mm of shim. I've heard that some can only use 1.5 and others can do 2. Is the performance difference noticeable? How much top speed will I lose? I use it for a lot of slow crawling and pulling so I would really like to gain some low end and I don't really care so much about top speed.
 

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I just picked up 4 shims from the local Yamaha dealer.. Got two 0.5mm shims and two 1.0mm. Im going to try the 2.0 right off the start and go down to 1.5mm if it wont fit the 2.0.
 

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That's not too bad. You can get the shims you need cheaper. I cant remember if they a for a kawi or not but I think so. If you youtube shim mod you will find them and a part #. If you can bite the bullet and get Glenlivet to do your sheeve you will be amazed and it's not that expensive. It helps with acceleration for sure but where it really shines is in the slow technical stuff. It's like having a granny gear so you can power creep over obstacles with great control. It does this without really losing top end. The shim mod will help but the sheeve mod is the ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not really up to getting it machined but how much can I expect from 2 mm? Thanks for the replies.
 

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I can only go by others experience with the shim mod. You will feel the difference in the low end. For no more than it cost i think it's a worth while mod. The people that I know that have done it like it. I think most go 1.5 but sometimes there is room enough for 2mm worth of shim. I watched a couple of vids on it so I could do it. Then I decided to get the sheeve done instead. You will lose top end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, thanks! If I get around to it I'll report my experience.
 

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I just picked up 4 shims from the local Yamaha dealer.. Got two 0.5mm shims and two 1.0mm. Im going to try the 2.0 right off the start and go down to 1.5mm if it wont fit the 2.0.
Sorry I missed your post. How much were the shims? Couldn't remember if they were Kawi or Yammi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm also considering putting in a stronger secondary spring or primary weights. Are any special tools needed to do this? Everything I read on this just says what they did and not how, although I do have a pretty good idea.
 

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I am sending my clutch off the Glenlivet next week. After reading the reviews, I did not start with the shims. Most thought they worked but did not compare with the clutch mod. The shims started this mod, the clutch mod was the next level improvement. Apparently the shims will give you the lower gearing that you are looking for, just not as much as the clutch mod and you will lose top end speed as you gain low end torque. I will never see the top end in mine anyway, I like riding low and slow and four wheeling. The shim may work for you just fine at a lower cost.

Glenlivet (and the original "COOP") did recommend adding .5 MM to 1 MM shim along with the clutch mod for even lower gearing than just the clutch mod with minimal top end loss.

Both recommended doing the secondary spring mod as well. This mod will slow down the secondary from opening up and hold the lower gear longer than stock. EPS yellow is what I will go with. It does take a special tool, either bought or made, to compress teh spring and remove the spring clock or holder. You may be able to do it with just strong hands, but you could getting hurt or at least very frustrated doing it. Google each part or process and you will find you tube videos explaining all of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks! Will the stronger spring lose top end or will it just delay the upshift? Are you buying a whole clutch kit or just the spring?
 

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My understanding is the stronger secondary spring will just delay the upshift and keep the belt at its highest point longer. Should not affect top end speed once the secondary opens up fully.

I am just using the spring. I don't see much benefit in using the clutch kit. I am not changing the weights or installing new wet clutch springs. If I were adding 28" tires, I might consider lighter weights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ordered the clutch shims. Now how do I removed the main bolt on the primary bolt without just turning it. I watch people in vids and they just pop it off. Thanks.

:noupstoday01:
 

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Easiest way is the have an impact wrench in reverse.



THOMAS
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Then doesn't it just spin the clutch? That's what mine did.

Edit: I took two bars and made a kind of leverage lock to hold it and then spun it off with the impact wrench.

:noupstoday01:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, mod complete. Top speed is now 48 instead of 55 and it's definitely easier to creep slowly through tough terrain or get lower speed with higher rpm. If you have the need for speed don't do this mod.
 

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I did the shim mod yesterday, 1.5mm. ('14 KQ500, 27's)
I can really feel the difference. I'm ok with the reduced top end.
Here in NC, we creep through the woods, creeks and over the rocks; single track.
I can still kick out the rear end around a corner...
this is a good mod for the trails I ride.
I give it 4 out of 5 stars.
inexpensive, fairly easy, good results.
 

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With 26’s, no you shouldn’t have to. Though that’s also dependant on how heavy the tires you want to get are. If you want to have almost zero performance loss. Sticking with the stock sizes are your best bet.
 

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With 26’s, no you shouldn’t have to. Though that’s also dependant on how heavy the tires you want to get are. If you want to have almost zero performance loss. Sticking with the stock sizes are your best bet.

I mostly do trail riding with occasional mud and water. I have taken my new KQ in mud a few tims and I'm disappointed in the factory tires. But this ATV is also heavier and has more power so it digs a hole faster than my Vinson. But my Vinson was better in mud which is kinda sad.

I been looking int the Coops clutch mod and i emailed him. I told him i was going to keep 25" tires but wanted more top and bottom end and asked what he recommended and this is what he emailed me.

You have a couple options

Option #1

Here is what I would do, and 90% are doing.

For Maximum low end power and the lowest ratio, we would do Mod#3 to your moveable sheave, this will give you 25% lower take off ratio and engine braking, and all with no top speed loss at all.

Then you would send your stock roller with the sheave, and I would lighten them for better throttle response.

These mods will give you all the bottom end possible, and great back shifting, and throttle response.

Mod#3 the moveable sheave, the sheave

that the rollers are in. = $135.00

Your stock roller machined to your riding style, and tire size.= $60.00

Shipping back to you on USPS priority mail $15.00

Total = $210.00
But now i am considering 26" tires and something that's not super heavy. I will have to email him again and ask him if 26's would change anything.
 
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