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I just got my King Quad 500AXI 2017
I went riding in some water. Had issues and now I checked the rear diff fluid and I can’t tell if water has gotten in or not. Any way u can tell? It’s feels like water is mixed with oil. And how often should I change the rear diff fluid? And my final question is if I wanted to be able to ride in water all the time. Other than the radiator do I just have to snorkel the 3 mains and grease the electric, or are the vents for the diff and such that I also have to worry about
 

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Only way to really tell if water has entered the rear case is to drain the fluid. Changing the fluid is fairy inexpensive, so to be certain things as alright I highly recommend changing the fluid. And the crankcase (Rear Diff), shares the same oil as the engine. So essentially you’d be changing your engine oil and filter. Only other oil you have back there is your wet brake oil. This is more susceptible to water intrusion more then anything. Only thing you can really do here is make sure the the o-ring to the fill cap is in tip top shape. As for snorkels, unfortunately I can’t help you there as I have very limited knowledge in this field. But if you intend on riding in water frequently, I would suggest extending any vent you may have higher up on the bike to avoid possible water intrusion.
 

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When you get water in the engine or diffs people usually flush them with diesel or kerosene. A friend hydrolocked his Honda 420 Rancher and we flushed it with diesel. When i find water in my diffs i always flush them with kerosene (because i always have some). But i dont know what kerosene would do to the wet brake if anything, but i would probbaly do it.
 

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Personally doing any flushing using kerosene, diesel, or any other harsh substance is not a great idea. Your always better off doing a flush using the proper oil and just changing it 3-4 times. Basically change the oil then drive the quad 8-10 kilometres or so then change the oil again. Then repeat this process a couple more times until your comfortable everything is good then so a final change.
 

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I should have added your not supposed to run the ATV with kerosene or diesel in it. You slosh it around and dump it to help get rid of as much water as you can. My old Bayou was really bad about getting water in the differentials but my Suzuki only did when the front diff seal was leaking.

I accidentally did a gasoline engine flush on my Vinson when the float valve stuck open and filled the crank case and the air filter box full of 5 gallons of gas in my garage. That was an interesting smell to wake up too at 3:00 in the morning. I drained the air filter box, crank case and let it sit for a few days to let all the gas drip and evaporate before refilling it with oil and it never caused any problems.
 

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Pretty easy to tell if your oil is contaminated with water...the oil will be milky color or if its only a small bit of water light brown and very distinctive. If there is no water it will look normal.

You simply need to open the inspection bolt and let a small amount flow out to inspect.

If there is any contamination just empty and normal fill with any engine oil, drive it around for a bit and drain. If the oil still looks like new refill with specified oil and your good to go.

Rinsing with solvents wont achieve as much, as you cant drive it around. Your bearings will have the oil stripped out and wont be fully lubed untill you drive around for a bit when you refill with oil, this may or may not do much harm.
 

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I should have added your not supposed to run the ATV with kerosene or diesel in it. You slosh it around and dump it to help get rid of as much water as you can. My old Bayou was really bad about getting water in the differentials but my Suzuki only did when the front diff seal was leaking.

I accidentally did a gasoline engine flush on my Vinson when the float valve stuck open and filled the crank case and the air filter box full of 5 gallons of gas in my garage. That was an interesting smell to wake up too at 3:00 in the morning. I drained the air filter box, crank case and let it sit for a few days to let all the gas drip and evaporate before refilling it with oil and it never caused any problems.
I still wouldn’t put any harsh substance in your wet brake or anywhere else for that matter even if your not running your bike. That is actually the first time in 11 years that I’ve ever heard of anyone using kerosene, diesel, etc, in any atv for the purpose of flushing. But to each their own. I still believe doing any flushing by doing 2-3 oil changes is still the safest way to go.
 

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I still wouldn’t put any harsh substance in your wet brake or anywhere else for that matter even if your not running your bike. That is actually the first time in 11 years that I’ve ever heard of anyone using kerosene, diesel, etc, in any atv for the purpose of flushing. But to each their own. I still believe doing any flushing by doing 2-3 oil changes is still the safest way to go.

I used to be on HighLifter forums many years ago when i was into that type of riding. Those guys were always swamping their machines and back then they would get the water out by filling them up with diesel. I never swamped my engine but it stuck with me and when my friends 420 rancher got hydro-locked we did the diesel thing to it. It never was right afterwards it had the bluies but it ran.

I guess the thinking behind it is because Diesel is a very light weight oil. So it should not damage the engine as long as you dont run it filled with diesel. And when you have a lot of moisture in a engine and fill it with diesel and shake it around all of the water thats in it will sink to the bottom. So you dont have to run moisture in your oil and do several oil changes to get it all out. It's just a faster (and much cheaper) process and if there is sediment and grit in the engine as well it will flush it out better than 10W40 when you pull the drain plug.

 
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