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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
He didn't have the 1.25. He said it would be fine. I'm stupid for not knowing better but I'm learning. Keep in mind this is my first atv and I'm not a mechanic at all.
Glen, I'm using a vaca day from work and gonna try what u said in ur last post. I hate to cobble stuff together but it's my only real option right now. The engine case is something I'll have to save for I'm sure and looking at the service manual it's gonna be a huge undertaking. Something I'll likely need help on. Noone around here works on suzuki. Noone here owns a suzuki and the closest dealer is about 80 miles away.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'll try to figure out how to post a pic later and I'll also post my progress throughout the day.

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The new plug on the left, original one on right. The new plug is shorter than the original. I hope it's long enough. Idk why it wouldn't work. I'm gonna use a copper and rubber washer also.

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
About to flush it out with fresh oil. When the oil starts coming through without shavings or grease in it I'll let it stop dripping then I'll put threadlocker on the plug and rtv the washer and torque it to spec. Wish me luck.

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Here's what the inside looks like. The hole is not really deep so short is good, especially as the longer the plug the more it works into the tapered and incompletely threaded part of the hole. You did well to get it threaded with so little extra depth clearance to work with. This is where one of those bottoming taps would be just the ticket. It's what they are for. :)

The little bump in the case web at bottom center in the first pic is for the drain plug

09 11 Suzuki King Quad 500 4x4 LTA500XP LTA500 Left Center Engine Case Crank E | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thank god u are here. Lol. I've flushed it. Now I'm gonna inspect the hole and make sure I can't see any debris. Then I'll follow ur previous instruction and threadlocker then rtv the washer top and bottom. I am trying to figure out how to set my new torque wrench. I need it set to 12 ft-lbs, correct? Not in-lbs?

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Also, could u see the small crack? In the pic it runs from the hole, across the machined surface, and down the rough part of the crankcase. In total it's about 3/8" long and narrow enough that my fingernail barely catches on it.

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I've set my torque wrench to 144 in/lbs. That should be right at 12 ft/lbs. I'm about to put the plug in. I'll wait a few mins to make sure someone don't add something vital here.

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Ok. That's done. I'll wait for the rtv to set up a lil before I jb weld the crack. The crack is so tiny it may be a chore to get the jb to it. After I do that and it cures some I'll silicone more around the top of the washer. I'll give all of that a good day or so to set then I'll put some oil in it and see how it holds.

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Looks good, I think you have a handle on it. The crack is shorter than I'd imagined so the JB weld will be a challenge to apply and even may be a moot point here. Not much going to seep through that crack, the way it is.
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
By the time I got all the rtv on that I wanted I couldn't even see the crack. I'm gonna let it cure real good then I'll put some oil in it and see if it leaks.
Thanks for all the help. Idk what I would've done without this forum.

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