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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently purchased a 2008 KQ 450. It rolled over to 1000 miles so I changed the oil and filter. I noticed as I was taking the plug out it was very tight initially then it felt like it just gave and then it was very easy to turn. When I got ready to put the plug back in it never got tight at all. Almost no resistance screwing it back in. Now it's holding oil buy it has a very slow leak. In 4 days it has leaked maybe a half cup. So I'm really not wanting to tap it out. A guy at work told me to buy a new plug and it should work? Don't make sense to me. Is there a fix that a beginner could do? Any help would be much appreciated. Sorry for the wall of text.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BTW, I downloaded the service manual today so I now have the torque specs but I couldn't find the drain plug size or part number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe it was cross-threaded. Did you inspect the thread lines on the plug and oil pan?
I pulled the plug again just now. The plug itself is in good shape. It did have peices of the hole Stück in the threads. I guess the hole is stripped out. Any advice on a fix?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Could I use Teflon tape for now? Just until I can fix it? It has only leaked about a half cup since I changed the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok. Scratch that. Hopefully someone is still reading this thread. Lol. I decided to do it right. The plug that was in it was a m12 × 1.25. I bought a m14×1.25 plug and 14mm tap. Today I Drilled the hole out carefully. I went slow and always kept the bit dipped in grease. I still noticed a little grease and shavings in the ports inside the drain hole. I have the bike setting on jack stands. Tomorrow I will tap it. I'm very nervous about keeping the tap square. Any advice for me??

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There are 3 types of taps. A starter tap an intermediate and a bottoming.
You'll want the tap on the bottom in the picture.
You can hold something square along side of the tap as you turn it to help guide it square.
Be sure to check it at 90 degrees also. Do this before it gets a good hold because once you turn it about one revolution your course is pretty much set. Use oil or brake fluid or tyranny oil for lube. Grease would help hold the chips but take your time.
Reverse the tap about every 1/2 turn to break chips.

Good luck
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not sure what type of tap mine is. I didn't look real close. I just grabbed one with the diameter and thread I needed. I'll look and see what it is when I get off work. Thanks a lot. If u think of anything else important just post it. I'll be checking here all day.

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Look at it, if the tap tapers from the business end for a good inch until it shows full threads it's a taper tap. Plug taps (the intermediate) are not that common. Shorter taper.
Bottoming taps have full threads almost right to the end and look like bolts with the four sides grooved away. You want a taper tap. Grease to catch the chips is a good idea both on the tap and inside the hole. You can use the short end of an allen wrench to spread grease thick inside and then again when you are done, to carefully rescue the grease and any chips in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well......I screwed up. BIG TIME! The tap handle the parts store sold me yesterday didn't fit the 14mm tap. I went to 6 different places today looking for a bigger handle. No one had one. The only option was to buy a full tap/die set for $120. I cheaped out. I know. I know. The last place I went was advanced auto. They talked me into a 14mm x 1.50 oversized drain plug. (I had already Drilled the drain hole out to 1/2") I got the plug in about halfway and the damn oil pan cracked. Just a hairline crack but still a crack. So now I have to replace the oil pan. I can't find in the service manual even how to pull the pan. I can't find the pan for sale online either. How bad am I screwed?

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's wat I get for cheaping out and trying to hurry it. I usually don't do that but money is a little tight and deer season is coming fast. I just wanted to get the bike back in service quickly to get my deer woods ready. Can't win for losing.

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This is not going to be good news. unlike a car or truck you'll find the quad doesn't have a replaceable 'oilpan' per se. It's the engine/transmission casings themselves that the drain plug resides.
 

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Nobody's doing you any favors. I don't understand why the last shop would 'talk you into' using a different thread pitch than the original for which you had a tap and new drain plug already, a coarser pitch one at that.

The SAE tap drill you chose, 1/2" would have been good for the 1.25 pitch tap but it's a bit loose for the 1.5 pitch. Using a tap of a different pitch in a hole that's only 2 MM (one MM per side) bigger than the old threaded hole means that any artifact remaining of the old threads won't mesh properly all the way with the new one. The 1.5 tap would just find and follow the old threads if there was anything left.

Now that plug they sold you, was it a taper? I don't see that it should have got tight and cracked your cases otherwise, you did fully tap the hole for that plug at the stated 14 x 1.5 MM I presume?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No. It was never tapped by me. I didn't have the correct size tap handle to tap the hole. The hole was originally 12mm. I drilled the hole with a 1/2" bit. There were no threads left in the hole. The oversized plug I bought was tapered. He 'talked me into' buying it bc I was nervous about tapping it myself. I have never tapped anything before and this wasn't ideal for my first. He told me he had used an oversized many times and it would work great.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After looking closely through the manual I see now that the part I will need will be a crankcase cover. I'm confused on whether it is the left side cc cover or the center one? I'll need to get back under the bike to look. Idk how to even begin to take it apart. Hopefully I won't have to pull the motor. This is really out of my skill range but I've gotta do something. I'll take pics of the Crack tomorrow so yall can get a better idea of what I've done.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I didn't tap the hole for the oversized bc the parts guy told me it would make its own threads and as I stated I couldn't find the correct tap handle.

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I didn't tap the hole for the oversized bc the parts guy told me it would make its own threads and as I stated I couldn't find the correct tap handle.

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I believe the guy at the auto parts store screwed you, perhaps well meaning and wanting to help using what he knew from cars, but none the less...

It's quite the risk using car repair stuff like that on the lighter duty cases of an ATV. Like this guy reported,
...Never use a 1/2" over-sized self threading drain plug from the automotive shop on the TRX300 or any ATV that utilized a 12mm drain bolt. Why you ask? A 1/2" over-sized drain plug is for exactly what it sounds like. To replace a 1/2" drain plug when the threads have been stripped. Installing one of these in place of a 12mm drain plug can cause a wedge effect essentially splitting the cases cast aluminum...
At least in the car if it did split the thicker and heavier cast aluminum of an oil pan it would just mean replacing the oil pan, not the whole damned motor case!

Quantum Quads: Stripped Drain Plugs on the TRX300

I'll imagine the car parts guy sold you something like this:

https://www.lawsonproducts.ca/lawson/Metric-Self-Tapping-Drain-Plug/KT11804.lp

The part you need now, or need repaired is the left side main engine case.
Unfortunately it means removing the engine and doing a complete teardown. Either to tig weld it or replace it. I've never heard of one being repaired from a split while in situ, and in any case the split will be across the sealing surface of the drain plug so it would need to be welded there too and then milled flat again. Easier to replace the case, and they are best sold/used and obtained as a pair. Used would be the way to go.

Here's the part, and the drain plug and washer is seen below. That car parts guy cost you a lot of grief with his bright idea.

2008 Suzuki KingQuad (LT-A450XZ) CRANKCASE | SuzukiPart.com
 

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OK thinking of the most practical solution to this mess.

If it were me. You want to go hunting. Got no time or money for the big repair.
So I'd take that oversize plug thing and throw it away, get yourself a 14 x 1.5 MM tap (now that the hole is started to that pitch) and HANDLE ( which the guy who sold you the first tap and handle should have seen that they fit together) and finish tapping that hole to it's now 14 x 1.5.
Take a screwdriver and poke it into the drain hole first and see that the tap when it sticks in there as far as it will, isn't going to hit something.
Now get yourself a 14 x 1.5 oil drain plug, silicone the gasket on both sides, paint the threads with stud strength threadlocker and spin that plug in there and torque it not terribly hard, you don't want it spreading that crack any harder than it has to, maybe 12 foot pounds. That plug is now going to be in there to stay.
(for oil changes from now on, get yourself a fluid evacuator. Suck the old oil out through the oil filler. The drain never has to come out, ever. Do your diffs that way too, heck your pickup truck. I do. Never risk a moments worry about drain plugs ever again :) )
Now that crack. It isn't going to go away and it might carry on, then again it might not.
I'd clean the length of it with acetone, scrape the hell out of it, and mix up some J-B Weld and layer it along the crack. It isn't a fix, just an extra effort at a temporary repair.
Now it may weep a little oil, it may not. Keep watching that area like a hawk and be aware all the time there's a vulnerable spot under the motor.
Not an elegant forever fix but it ought to get you through hunting season. Who knows? If you just intend to get through hunting season and then fix it properly you could do without the stud threadlocker, it's just you don't want to spread the crack by successively torquing the drain plug time and again.
As the motor has to work in its mounts and the cases are under some stress a guy wants to keep an eye out for the crack growing.
But whatever extra life it gets it's more than the out of commission ATV has to offer right now.

Sorry I didn't notice this thread till later today.

G/L
 
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