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Ok Ozark 250 with the cv carb is that correct ? Has the fuel cock with on /pri/and res, when I bought the bike they had the carb plugged off and had a aftermarket fuel cock on it with the normal on off res , I tilted the bike up one day to clean every since this thing has been nothing but a nightmare , an it ran perfect for 2 years , purred like a kitten at idle so quiet and smooth you couldn't even hear it over a conversation, so then I started noticing it was getting hard to start at times I smelt fuel well for some reason the air box was filling up with fuel and oil , idk why this was a year ago , so I switched back to factory fuel cock with pri on and res and hooked the vacuum line back up to the carb so it ran fine for amin , but then was having problems starting which in turn was flooding it out so badly it was coming out the overflow of the carb cause it was cranking and pushing fuel but not firing so flooding it like it was 1995 , so now heres where I'm at I can go out there and it will start and idle just fine but the second I give it any throttle it's instantly no not instantly it will drive with 10% maybe 16% throttle but anything near 1/4 or more throttle it spits and sputters and pops and wants to sound like the Beverly hillbillies old car , I have cleaned the carb so many times I think it holds more fuel now , and this is what I'm baffled about there are like 3 adjustments that adjust the same damn thing ok so sitting on the quad reach my left had down and twist the white plastic knob that's routed under the carb and to the pulley with the cable around it ok , then there's the throttle cable comes down and into the same thing and there's a screw and lock nut that is right where it enters the pulley housing which you can adjust that in and out , as well as follow that cable up to the throttle and you can also adjust it up on the bars by the thumb throttle, so all 3 of those control that damn pulley with the cable wrapped around it that leads up to the throttle , why? Then the only other adjustment I see on the carb is a brass screw that is on the jug side of the carb and if I seat that screw idle races if I crack it open rpms drop tremendously but it don't die ,but if I back it out 1.25 turns and and say give the cable on the pulley slack it will die , I have tried every combination between that screw seated and then adjusted all 3 then I cracked it and tried All three adjustment no matter what I try I can't get it to idle smooth then take off smooth and then have power and smooth through the gears , all I can say is I hate this vacuum style carb why would they ever use it it just over complicates the whole carb like carbs are tricky enough then to add that **** aggravates the daylights out of me to the point I spend 2 or 3 hours trying something out it all back together and same damn thing makes me want to literally push it off a cliff into a river there has got to be something that says ok from the factory this is how the brass screw is set , this is how the 3 settings for the cable are set . But I guess not cause no one can seem to tell me that or even where to look to find that answer . Any ideas would help . Thanks
 

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If the air box is filling up with fuel the problem is the float valve adjustment. There is usually a metal tab on the float that can be bent ever so slightly to raise or lower the fuel level in the float bowl. Over time with the gas left on the pressure of the fuel wanting to push the needle valve down bends the metal tab. Which allows the valve to open and flood the fuel bowl. When this happens it the gas floods into the air box and cylinder.

Suzuki started using a fuel petcock that i think operated by vacuum to prevent the tab from bending. I am not a Suzuki expert but i know my 07 Vinson has one and so did my friends 2003 Vinson. But even these petcocks can go bad and fuel can end up going to the vacuum line to the carb and do the same thing.

My 07 Vinson started running bad due to the needle valve just having ethanol fuel build up on the flat valve and the float valve seat. All i had to do was clean the factory valve and seat up good and it quit doing it.
 

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Ok Ozark 250 with the cv carb is that correct ? Has the fuel cock with on /pri/and res, when I bought the bike they had the carb plugged off and had a aftermarket fuel cock on it with the normal on off res , I tilted the bike up one day to clean every since this thing has been nothing but a nightmare , an it ran perfect for 2 years , purred like a kitten at idle so quiet and smooth you couldn't even hear it over a conversation, so then I started noticing it was getting hard to start at times I smelt fuel well for some reason the air box was filling up with fuel and oil , idk why this was a year ago , so I switched back to factory fuel cock with pri on and res and hooked the vacuum line back up to the carb so it ran fine for amin , but then was having problems starting which in turn was flooding it out so badly it was coming out the overflow of the carb cause it was cranking and pushing fuel but not firing so flooding it like it was 1995 , so now heres where I'm at I can go out there and it will start and idle just fine but the second I give it any throttle it's instantly no not instantly it will drive with 10% maybe 16% throttle but anything near 1/4 or more throttle it spits and sputters and pops and wants to sound like the Beverly hillbillies old car , I have cleaned the carb so many times I think it holds more fuel now , and this is what I'm baffled about there are like 3 adjustments that adjust the same damn thing ok so sitting on the quad reach my left had down and twist the white plastic knob that's routed under the carb and to the pulley with the cable around it ok , then there's the throttle cable comes down and into the same thing and there's a screw and lock nut that is right where it enters the pulley housing which you can adjust that in and out , as well as follow that cable up to the throttle and you can also adjust it up on the bars by the thumb throttle, so all 3 of those control that damn pulley with the cable wrapped around it that leads up to the throttle , why? Then the only other adjustment I see on the carb is a brass screw that is on the jug side of the carb and if I seat that screw idle races if I crack it open rpms drop tremendously but it don't die ,but if I back it out 1.25 turns and and say give the cable on the pulley slack it will die , I have tried every combination between that screw seated and then adjusted all 3 then I cracked it and tried All three adjustment no matter what I try I can't get it to idle smooth then take off smooth and then have power and smooth through the gears , all I can say is I hate this vacuum style carb why would they ever use it it just over complicates the whole carb like carbs are tricky enough then to add that **** aggravates the daylights out of me to the point I spend 2 or 3 hours trying something out it all back together and same damn thing makes me want to literally push it off a cliff into a river there has got to be something that says ok from the factory this is how the brass screw is set , this is how the 3 settings for the cable are set . But I guess not cause no one can seem to tell me that or even where to look to find that answer . Any ideas would help . Thanks
Lets see..... The vac petcock just serves as an automatic shut off when the engine is off and not creating vacuum. PRI bypasses the vacuum valve and does just what it says. Primes the system with fuel if say you run out of gas or after storage. Do you have a NEW vacuum petcock? If you have an old one and if the diaphragm in there or O-ring is bad or leaking it could flow gas straight into your engine through the vacuum line. ADJUSTMENT screw on engine side of carb controls gas. Out for more gas. Airbox side screws controls air which would be IN for more gas. ALSO be sure the diaphragm for the slide is good. Any leaks? Pin holes or tears will really screw with the running. ALSO the "choke" is not a choke. It's an "enrichener" . If the rubber seal is bad or its not adjusted correctly will allow gas to flow into your engine as well. These three cables are not all for your throttle. The knob is most likely for you idle adjustment. One may be for your enrichener. And one for your throttle. It sounds like you need to start from square one. Take carb off and verify that everything is functioning correctly. Throttle plate. Low speed fuel screw adjusted and passage clear of dirt. Slide and diaphragm in good condition and needle in good shape and center groove (center usually stock factory position). Float adjusted correctly and in good shape as well as the needle and seat functioning as it should. Go through each cable to be sure they are working right and move freely and adjust each separately. Carb work is very simple. Don't overthink it. You have three basic circuits. Go through each one at a time and verify that each is good to go. I wish you luck.
 
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