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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys this is my first post on this forum, but I'm in no way new to ATVs or forums. I've had everything from bone stock 300 Kawasaki Prairies and 400 Arctic Cats to full blown drag bikes like a 760 Pami DS650. Joined her because I've been a LONG time member of a Kawasaki forum and know there is a ton of bike specific knowledge avaliable.

So now to the problem. My uncle has an 04 Suzuki Eiger that has been as tough as nails and an excellent utility ride for around his farm. Well I've run into a problem with it that I can't get worked out. What's happening is the bike will run perfect when it's cold and not up to normal operating temperature. Once the motor warms up good it begins to load up at idle until it dies. It will fire right back up with no problems but won't idle when warm. The A/F screw is 2 1/2 turns out. The idle adjustment can be set up high enough so the bike will idle when warm but that makes it rediculiously high when the motor is cool.

Now what's been done in an attempt to remedy the problem.

1. The petcock has been replaced with a brand new factory one.

2. The fuel tank has been removed and cleaned in a heated parts washer. Looks new inside and out.

3. The carb has been completely torn apart, completely sprayed out all the ports, and also ran through the parts washer. It looks new also. The needle seat has been polished and is sealing. Also the float needle has been checked and is completely sealing of with no seepage unless lifted out of the seat.

4. The flywheel magnets have been checked and are secure on the flywheel. I know some have been known to move and cause iratic fire problems.

5. The voltage regulator has been checked as shows to be good. It's reading 13.5-14 volts when cold and running right and the same when warm and loading up trying to die. I do know voltage regulators tend to warm up when running and this one got fairly toasty today after letting the bike idle for 10-15 minutes. I'm thinking even though it reads correctly, I'm thinking this may be the problem because this bike was cranked with the pull rope and ran WITHOUT a battery for well over a year. I just hate to spend my uncles money on it and that not be the problem.

6. After letting it idle for a while today I felt of the CDI to see if it was getting warm and maybe the problem. I've seen this before also. It was room temperature. With the price of a CDI and not having a spare to test it I don't want to spend the money just to check a part that may be fine too.

7. The bike has had a rough physical life but the motor its self is in excellent shape and has as much power as when it was new. The airbox and airfilter is clean, the oil is fresh, and the valves have been checked and only one was adjusted by .001.

Guys I'm needing any help that can be given. Thanks in advance for any useful advice and help.
 

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I am not sure about Suzuki as I just got my first one a month or so ago. But I know yamahas will run with the voltage regulator unplugged. I'd make sure your battery has a good strong full charge and unplug that regulator. I don't think it's your problem but if it'll run with it unplugged you'll be able to tell for sure.

Also I don't remember seeing if you've changed the spark plug? That's a cheap easy thing to try.
If I missed where you did sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't list either of them but both have been done. The plug is new and so is the battery, the battery is fully charged to.
 

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Ok guys this is my first post on this forum, but I'm in no way new to ATVs or forums. I've had everything from bone stock 300 Kawasaki Prairies and 400 Arctic Cats to full blown drag bikes like a 760 Pami DS650. Joined her because I've been a LONG time member of a Kawasaki forum and know there is a ton of bike specific knowledge avaliable.

So now to the problem. My uncle has an 04 Suzuki Eiger that has been as tough as nails and an excellent utility ride for around his farm. Well I've run into a problem with it that I can't get worked out. What's happening is the bike will run perfect when it's cold and not up to normal operating temperature. Once the motor warms up good it begins to load up at idle until it dies. It will fire right back up with no problems but won't idle when warm. The A/F screw is 2 1/2 turns out. The idle adjustment can be set up high enough so the bike will idle when warm but that makes it rediculiously high when the motor is cool.

Now what's been done in an attempt to remedy the problem.

1. The petcock has been replaced with a brand new factory one.

2. The fuel tank has been removed and cleaned in a heated parts washer. Looks new inside and out.

3. The carb has been completely torn apart, completely sprayed out all the ports, and also ran through the parts washer. It looks new also. The needle seat has been polished and is sealing. Also the float needle has been checked and is completely sealing of with no seepage unless lifted out of the seat.

4. The flywheel magnets have been checked and are secure on the flywheel. I know some have been known to move and cause iratic fire problems.

5. The voltage regulator has been checked as shows to be good. It's reading 13.5-14 volts when cold and running right and the same when warm and loading up trying to die. I do know voltage regulators tend to warm up when running and this one got fairly toasty today after letting the bike idle for 10-15 minutes. I'm thinking even though it reads correctly, I'm thinking this may be the problem because this bike was cranked with the pull rope and ran WITHOUT a battery for well over a year. I just hate to spend my uncles money on it and that not be the problem.

6. After letting it idle for a while today I felt of the CDI to see if it was getting warm and maybe the problem. I've seen this before also. It was room temperature. With the price of a CDI and not having a spare to test it I don't want to spend the money just to check a part that may be fine too.

7. The bike has had a rough physical life but the motor its self is in excellent shape and has as much power as when it was new. The airbox and airfilter is clean, the oil is fresh, and the valves have been checked and only one was adjusted by .001.

Guys I'm needing any help that can be given. Thanks in advance for any useful advice and help.
 

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I have exactly the same issue. Bike gets warm and idle fluctuates after 40 min of running Bike stalls and is hard to start unless I let it cool down. Not an issue on cool days. Rebuilt the carb and the battery turns it over easy. It feels like a fuel starvation or electrical issue related to heat. Cold bike starts and runs like a champ. It spins over great when warm but will not start unless I let it sit 5 min or so.
 

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I have exactly the same issue. Bike gets warm and idle fluctuates after 40 min of running Bike stalls and is hard to start unless I let it cool down. Not an issue on cool days. Rebuilt the carb and the battery turns it over easy. It feels like a fuel starvation or electrical issue related to heat. Cold bike starts and runs like a champ. It spins over great when warm but will not start unless I let it sit 5 min or so.
Mine did the same thing until I ran some seafoam threw it a couple times. Seafoam really works great.
 
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