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99’ King Quad / 00’ Warrior / 00’ Wolverine / 94’ Timberwolf
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Advance TLDR: I’ve tried every fix, and still nothing. Please help before I push this thing into the lake.

So!

I have a 99 King Quad that I’ve been rebuilding over the past year, and it has not been a fun experience.

The main issue I keep trying to correct is a bogging/intermittent power loss over half throttle. Every time I think I have it fixed, it does so in a new and frustrating way. It’ll usually run fine just long enough for me to be confident I finally solved it, then act up again. Here are the fixes I’ve tried.

Last Summer
-carb rebuild (all balls kit)
- new oem reg/rectifier (was over charging, is currently charging properly)
-valve adjustment (was and still is in spec)
  • carb professionally rebuilt with original jets
  • new oem petcock (old one was faulty)
At that point, the bike sat for a few weeks before I could put the petcock on, in that time frame the throttle cable froze, and so I said screw it and put it away for the winter (treated gas with stabil)

Present day.

Replaced throttle cable, reassembled and realized choke was frozen too, so undid everything again, and threw a new one of those on.

Kicked it over and it idled fine, though seemed hot. Ran it around the block and it would sputter some on the climb up to wide open (fifth gear in 2lo, aprox 35mph) but not as bad as before.

BUT! Now, when it gets to wide open, the second I let of the throttle, and then roll back on, it coughs, backfires, rolls to a stop and dies, where it remains dead until I set it to prime and blow down the tank breather hose while mashing the start button. It would then kick over and limp home.

Last night I tore apart the carb again, replaced everything with a shindy rebuild kit. The pilot (?) jet (one between the main and mixture) was clogged. Replaced all jets with new shindy, cleaned the carb meticulously, set needle to fourth groove from bottom and mixture to 2 5/8th turns out per factory spec. (I’m at 700 ft above sea level)

Hung the carb today, and tossed a new spark plug on for good measure. Ripped up and down the block, bogging hard again above 1/2 throttle, which I was just prepared to live with at this point, but again, after like 30 seconds of wide open throttle, it will sputter, backfire and die.

When this happenes, the only way to get it running again is to set it to prime, and blow down the tank vent hose while hitting the starter. It will then continue to run on prime, but is still bogging above 1/2 throttle, but won’t backfire or die.

So it’s running lean, but it’s also not?
I’m going to pull the fuel lines and fuel pump and try cleaning them out but I’m at a total loss.

The bike itself is in good shape, low miles (1100) and isn’t smoking or making any troubling noises. When I took the carb off yesterday, there was fuel in the fuel line, which leads me to think the pump is fine, but maybe that was from when I had set it to prime the last time it limped home? So maybe the fuel pump?
It can’t be the petcock, that was brand new oem in September, and it hasn’t been run since.

Though I’ve had the carb off like eight times, both intake boots are in good shape, not cracked and there are no leaks there. The air filter is stock, and the box and air system are complete. Hell, even the oil is fresh and the tires are new. So let’s rule those two things out.

The exhaust (muffler) has a small hole developing at the end of it, but I have to imagine that would make virtually no impact.

Ive never had it run lean on me before (the plug I replaced from last year actually showed it running a little rich) could it be the staybil of all things causing this?
Bad CDI?
On one thread a guy had a similar horror story, and it ended up being a “spark pickup”? But it seemed that stemmed from using knock off replacement parts.

Sorry for the long write up, but I want to be thorough and also demonstrate that I’ve tried every possible thing I could think of or find before troubling you all.

Hopefully someone out there has an idea, because the only explanation I can come up with at this point is “ghosts”. I’ve replaced everything else I could possibly think of.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and hopefully one of you can keep me from just pushing this into the lake.
 

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First off, welcome to the Forum. Only thing I can think of is the fuel pump which you didn’t totally rule out. So it’s best to check it to see if it’s working correctly. Pull the main fuel line off at the carb and crank the engine. Not in the Prime position. If the pump is working correctly fuel should pulsate out the line when cranking the engine, not continuously flow out. If the fuel stream is weak or non existent then the fuel pump is most likely the issue.


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99’ King Quad / 00’ Warrior / 00’ Wolverine / 94’ Timberwolf
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ajl719, thank you! I think my fuel pump may actually be fine after all.


So I went to pull the fuel pump so I could disassemble and check it. After pulling the fender splash guard out of the way, I immediately noticed that the vacuum line running into the pump was cracked and hanging open where it attaches to the fuel pump. (Essentially there was a big hole in the line). It was just out of sight enough with the slash guard installed that I didn’t notice it.

I cut the broken end of the hose off and reattached the vacuum hose to the fuel pump.

The extremely good news, no more backfiring and dying. Carb wasn’t getting enough fuel at wide open as the pump had no vacuum to pulse it. So I’m very, very happy about that because it was confusing me to no end.

The bad news, she still bogs between 3/4 and wide open throttle.

Could this be due to needle position or main jet size? I think those deal with this part of the power band correct?

Clip is currently 4th from the bottom of the needle per zuk spec. I tried two different needle sizes (the one that came with the shindy kit, and the oem one that was on the bike) with no massive difference. Figured I’d ask before I tried adjusting that again.

My gut is telling me carb, but beyond that I have no clue. Considering stripping it off the bike and boiling it, maybe a clog somewhere I can’t reach?

Anyway, any suggestions would be much appreciated, and thanks for reading this second novel.
 

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Riding in the Upper Peninsula my riding partner's three wheeler would just stop. After a short period later it would start and run then repeat the same. Turns out it was a (noseeum) crack in a vent or vacuum hose (I can't remember which) that would only open when the vent/hose got warm as it was close to engine. Dry Rot maybe?

I would try moving the e-clip to the middle position and see what happens.

For the exhaust hole it will only get worse. I cut a rectangular piece of galvanized sheet metal and pop rivet it to the muffler with JB weld in between. Careful not to get too close the edge of the muffler where the seam is as it will interfere with the rivet.

I was alone in the U.P. when my 96 300 stopped. Long walk to get towed out. I took it to Iron Mountain shop and they replaced fuel pump as it had a pin hole in the diaphragm. In hind sight I might have been able to put the petcock in prime and ride on. Good Luck.
 

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Is the carb a aftermarket, cheap Chinese, or OEM..? I’m guessing it’s OEM since you never mentioned anything about installing a different type carb. Are the jets you have in the carb the stock ones or a different size..? If their not the stock sized jets then that may be part of your problem. I would try putting everything back to stock if that is the case and try it again. You could also try the clip on the 3rd position instead of the 4th, see if that also makes a difference. And have you checked the condition of the air filter by any chance..? Is it clean or dirty at all..? A dirty air filter could be part of your problem, but I don’t think it be enough to cause your bike to bog.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hardwood:

Sorry about your long walk. I definitely had dry rot on the vac hose, which caused the odd leaning out issues. My fuel pump seems to be functioning fine, as it’s delivering fuel, but I may just replace it anyway to be safe.

Ajl719:

Air filter is a clean moose foam filter that does need to be re oiled, but I also have a k&n. Ran both, bogs with both.

Carb is stock mikuni and all jets are back to stock spec.

BUT!

You may have saved the day...

I forgot that at one point, before the over charging, petcock and every other thing except the Initial carb clean I’d done, I sent it to a dealer to have them put in rear bearings (didn’t want to deal with pressing them out in my garage) and told them it was bogging still. They swapped out the 120 main for a 110 and it solved the issue.

Then, every time something new happened and I couldn’t figure it out, I assumed carb again. When I sent it to get rebuilt with a local guy (post reg/Rec, pre petcock which was actually the problem then) he put the original 120 in. Then I saw the petcock was bad, then it sat.

I went out to the garage last night after I saw your post, and sure enough, in my growing spare parts bin was the 110 with the rest of the carb stuff.

Bogging like that at the top end indicates it running rich above 3/4 throttle and thus, too rich of a main jet. I think I basically paid a guy to unfix my carb problems, and not address the petcock.

So! Carbs coming off for the hundredth time, gonna toss the 110 in and see if that does anything.

I actually will report back with the my findings either way, as I don’t want to leave behind a frustrating thread where the issue is never solved.

Thanks so much for the help so far!
 

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Oh yeah, the dreaded carb removal. Most if not everyone detests the fact of having to remove it just to make carb adjustments. In your case you don’t have the choice since your changing the main jet. Though it’s still a tedious PITA job. Hopefully switching jets will be your final hurdle.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Right?

All my yamahas are a joy to wrench on, pulling the carbs are a breeze and you don’t have to take them half apart to change a cable or need surgical instruments to adjust the valves.

That being said... SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dropping down the main jet to 110 solved myfull Throttle bog. It seems to run with a little less punch with the smaller jet, so maybe I’ll go up to 115 if it becomes an issue. In the mean time, Im gonna toss the k&n back on and fiddle with the needle positioning to see if I find some extra power, but that’s just me getting greedy.

Also, this thing makes a some odd noises after I shut it off and it’s cooling down, some pinging and, fast crackling or something that goes on for a good ten minutes... is that something I should worry about?

I wanted to thank you guys for the help, and also wanted to share the following link that really helped me trouble shoot my carb issue. It’s from another forum, and it’s from 2008. Not sure what the rules are for doing so, but hopefully nobody will care as it was a very helpful run through of carb issues.

thanks again, and here’s the link!

 

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There is absolutely no issue with your link. It’s atv related, and as long as it’s not a personal blog, business, etc. Your link is perfectly valid.


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Advance TLDR: I’ve tried every fix, and still nothing. Please help before I push this thing into the lake.

So!

I have a 99 King Quad that I’ve been rebuilding over the past year, and it has not been a fun experience.

The main issue I keep trying to correct is a bogging/intermittent power loss over half throttle. Every time I think I have it fixed, it does so in a new and frustrating way. It’ll usually run fine just long enough for me to be confident I finally solved it, then act up again. Here are the fixes I’ve tried.

Last Summer
-carb rebuild (all balls kit)
- new oem reg/rectifier (was over charging, is currently charging properly)
-valve adjustment (was and still is in spec)
  • carb professionally rebuilt with original jets
  • new oem petcock (old one was faulty)
At that point, the bike sat for a few weeks before I could put the petcock on, in that time frame the throttle cable froze, and so I said screw it and put it away for the winter (treated gas with stabil)

Present day.

Replaced throttle cable, reassembled and realized choke was frozen too, so undid everything again, and threw a new one of those on.

Kicked it over and it idled fine, though seemed hot. Ran it around the block and it would sputter some on the climb up to wide open (fifth gear in 2lo, aprox 35mph) but not as bad as before.

BUT! Now, when it gets to wide open, the second I let of the throttle, and then roll back on, it coughs, backfires, rolls to a stop and dies, where it remains dead until I set it to prime and blow down the tank breather hose while mashing the start button. It would then kick over and limp home.

Last night I tore apart the carb again, replaced everything with a shindy rebuild kit. The pilot (?) jet (one between the main and mixture) was clogged. Replaced all jets with new shindy, cleaned the carb meticulously, set needle to fourth groove from bottom and mixture to 2 5/8th turns out per factory spec. (I’m at 700 ft above sea level)

Hung the carb today, and tossed a new spark plug on for good measure. Ripped up and down the block, bogging hard again above 1/2 throttle, which I was just prepared to live with at this point, but again, after like 30 seconds of wide open throttle, it will sputter, backfire and die.

When this happenes, the only way to get it running again is to set it to prime, and blow down the tank vent hose while hitting the starter. It will then continue to run on prime, but is still bogging above 1/2 throttle, but won’t backfire or die.

So it’s running lean, but it’s also not?
I’m going to pull the fuel lines and fuel pump and try cleaning them out but I’m at a total loss.

The bike itself is in good shape, low miles (1100) and isn’t smoking or making any troubling noises. When I took the carb off yesterday, there was fuel in the fuel line, which leads me to think the pump is fine, but maybe that was from when I had set it to prime the last time it limped home? So maybe the fuel pump?
It can’t be the petcock, that was brand new oem in September, and it hasn’t been run since.

Though I’ve had the carb off like eight times, both intake boots are in good shape, not cracked and there are no leaks there. The air filter is stock, and the box and air system are complete. Hell, even the oil is fresh and the tires are new. So let’s rule those two things out.

The exhaust (muffler) has a small hole developing at the end of it, but I have to imagine that would make virtually no impact.

Ive never had it run lean on me before (the plug I replaced from last year actually showed it running a little rich) could it be the staybil of all things causing this?
Bad CDI?
On one thread a guy had a similar horror story, and it ended up being a “spark pickup”? But it seemed that stemmed from using knock off replacement parts.

Sorry for the long write up, but I want to be thorough and also demonstrate that I’ve tried every possible thing I could think of or find before troubling you all.

Hopefully someone out there has an idea, because the only explanation I can come up with at this point is “ghosts”. I’ve replaced everything else I could possibly think of.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and hopefully one of you can keep me from just pushing this into the lake.
I had some issues like this I cleaned the fuel injector and the problem went away
Try you tube there is a lot of video on cleaning the fuel injector
 

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I had a similar issue with my 91 Quadrunner 300 (Kingquad). Would start fine but when out for a ride for about 15 minutes it would lose power, sputter and die. Did the whole carb rebuild kit, new fuel pump ( replaced with aftermarket replacement for Honda 16700-Z0J-003 which is waaaay cheaper than Suzuki OEM and works great but had to tie wrap it in two spots) and still had the same symptoms. Thought that the carburetor must be screwed so I took a chance on a cheap Chinese carburetor. It started overflowing fuel out of the float bowl right away. The Chinese carburetors are cast different than OEM so not many parts are interchangeable (different slide and float mechanism). BUT! The diaphragm was the same. When I compared the two, the original was noticeably stretched out compared to the new diaphragm out of the Chinese carb. The Chinese carb was cheaper than an OEM diaphragm! I swapped the diaphragms and BAM!, no more issues with loss of power and sputter after heating up! I think as the machine heated up ( mine WAS running hot until I installed a cooler fan mod. I didn't know that it was recommended to install an optional fan when a winch is installed on these King Quad 300s) the weakened diaphragm heated up and stretched to the point that it couldn't pull the main jet needle properly. When the machine cooled down the diaphragm would return to its shape (more or less) and the machine would run again. Replacing the diaphragm did the trick for me.
 

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I had ripped the carb out of the quad several times to work on it (which is a major pain in the ass as all of those who have done it can attest to). You can swap the diaphragm by just removing the seat and removing the top cap off the carburetor! Would have saved me days of headache and swearing had I known it was the culprit. Such an easy fix (in my case anyway).
 
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