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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

1999 Suzuki LT-F160 Quadrunner.
The headlight will not turn on, checked the fuse and relays are working. Wiring does not seem to be the issue as it was traced to ensure it’s good. Taillight works great. Not sure where to go next
 

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Hello,

1999 Suzuki LT-F160 Quadrunner.
The headlight will not turn on, checked the fuse and relays are working. Wiring does not seem to be the issue as it was traced to ensure it’s good. Taillight works great. Not sure where to go next
Welcome to the forum.

At the risk of oversimplification, can I assume that you have verified that there is no power at the plug for the bulb? I wouldn’t want to see you go crazy if we are just dealing with bulb issues.
 

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My first thought was possible burnt bulbs. Though I see my colleague has pretty much covered the basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the forum.

At the risk of oversimplification, can I assume that you have verified that there is no power at the plug for the bulb? I wouldn’t want to see you go crazy if we are just dealing with bulb issues.
Of course! Fair question, I have ensure the bulb and wiring just behind is receiving power. That was shot once I got so I immediately replaced thinking that was the issue.
 

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Of course! Fair question, I have ensure the bulb and wiring just behind is receiving power. That was shot once I got so I immediately replaced thinking that was the issue.
Ok, wish it would have been easy for you.

Now the process begins. You start tracing from the battery out to see where you have power and where you don’t.

You can skip ahead a bit and check the switch. Make sure there is power going to the switch first. If so, check power coming out of the switch. In this case, a pin, or needle can be your friend if you can not get to a bare wire.

Just keep checking for where the power is, and isn’t . Check grounds also along the way.

A wiring diagram may come in handy. Hopefully you won’t need it.

Let us know how you do.

Good luck.
 

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My first thought was possible burnt bulbs. Though I see my colleague has pretty much covered the basis.
I believe in following the same KISS theory for design and diagnosis (Keep It Simple Sam).
Start with the easy and obvious and work towards the tough stuff. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don’t think your stator is going to discriminate between starving one circuit and not another.

I believe your answer lies three posts prior.
Yeah fair enough. The issue I’m running in to is the switch is high/low (no off). The ignition houses where to turn the lights on and off. From what I can check that looks good (+wiring). Could it be the ignition housing?
 

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Yeah fair enough. The issue I’m running in to is the switch is high/low (no off). The ignition houses where to turn the lights on and off. From what I can check that looks good (+wiring). Could it be the ignition housing?
If the power runs through that switch, then yes. Anything that has the potential to interrupt, reroute, reduce, short out, or consume that power is suspect. In your case a short sounds like less of a possibility because you are not taking about blown fuses, smoking wires, or burning smells. Yours sounds like an open circuit. Power isn’t going through.

There is another way to fix this, but it is not the proper way. It may be easier, but would require another switch, an inline fuse , some wire and some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the power runs through that switch, then yes. Anything that has the potential to interrupt, reroute, reduce, short out, or consume that power is suspect. In your case a short sounds like less of a possibility because you are not taking about blown fuses, smoking wires, or burning smells. Yours sounds like an open circuit. Power isn’t going through.

There is another way to fix this, but it is not the proper way. It may be easier, but would require another switch, an inline fuse , some wire and some time.
I’m open for anything. Would that be wiring a whole separate switch?
 

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I’m open for anything. Would that be wiring a whole separate switch?
As I said, it would not be the proper way to do it, however……. You would need to run a fused line from the battery to a switch. You would then take the positive coming out of the switch and run it to the headlight wire(s). You would need to disconnect the wire leading back from the headlights, to the circuit, so you don’t backfeed the circuit. In other words, cut the wire leading to the headlights and splice in the new wire after the switch. As I mentioned, make sure that you run a fused positive line up to the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As I said, it would not be the proper way to do it, however……. You would need to run a fused line from the battery to a switch. You would then take the positive coming out of the switch and run it to the headlight wire(s). You would need to disconnect the wire leading back from the headlights, to the circuit, so you don’t backfeed the circuit. In other words, cut the wire leading to the headlights and splice in the new wire after the switch. As I mentioned, make sure that you run a fused positive line up to the switch.
Ah okay that makes sense! Okay, I will see what I can do a report back!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So we tried to wire the headlight straight from the battery. Problem is there is three headlights wire on the harness. Black, black and white and yellow. The yellow is indicated as the low beam, the black and white is indicated as the high beam, and the black as ground. Is there a way to wire the battery straight to the bulb through the factory harness off of the bulb. We have tried a few things with no light coming on from the bulb. Wondering if we’re missing something.
 
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