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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I have a suzuki 2006 eiger 400. Have cleaned and recleaned the carburator and jets, replaced the petcock, installed a new sparkplug, and added a fuel filter. Alld diaphrams look good. Adjusted the gas/air mixture to 2.5 turns. The voltage at the battery is off and at idle. The engine idles fine. Put choke in it dies out. When give it throttle it bogs doen and backfires. Any suggestions?
 

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Hi all,
I have a suzuki 2006 eiger 400. Have cleaned and recleaned the carburator and jets, replaced the petcock, installed a new sparkplug, and added a fuel filter. Alld diaphrams look good. Adjusted the gas/air mixture to 2.5 turns. The voltage at the battery is off and at idle. The engine idles fine. Put choke in it dies out. When give it throttle it bogs doen and backfires. Any suggestions?
Welcome to the forum.

Is this the factory carb that you are dealing with? I would check for vacuum leaks. Have you ever adjusted the valves? That’s another thing that could cause backfires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is a factory carb. I replaced the jets and float and still had same issue. I plugged the vacuum line from the petcock when i replaced it with a non vacuum petcock. Never adjusted the valves
 

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I originally began working on the atv for a difficult starting issue when it was cold. Ran fine once it warmed up. Changed the petcock and the sparkplug. After that is when i had the backfiring issue when the throttle was pushed. So, i took carb off several times and cleaned the jets and body. Changed the jets and no difference. Then put old jets back in after I made sure to clean the side holes in the jets.
 

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I originally began working on the atv for a difficult starting issue when it was cold. Ran fine once it warmed up. Changed the petcock and the sparkplug. After that is when i had the backfiring issue when the throttle was pushed. So, i took carb off several times and cleaned the jets and body. Changed the jets and no difference. Then put old jets back in after I made sure to clean the side holes in the jets.
When you say cleaned, did you soak it long term, or use an ultrasonic cleaner? Often, spraying these carbs isn’t enough. The passages are small and need intensive cleaning. Also, what did you use to clean it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gumout carb cleaner. I will take it apart and give it a good soak then. The jets were thoroughly cleaned though.
 

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Another thing you should do after doing a deep thorough carb cleaning is to buy yourself a good high quality carb rebuild kit. “Shindy” carb rebuild kits come highly recommended by most members here on the Forum. Most times just a cleaning isn’t enough. And hard cold starts are often attributed to out of spec valves. Check the valve clearances and adjust them if need be. And you mentioned the voltage reading is off. How off is it..? A high voltage reading can cause havoc on your electrical system and cause all sorts of issues. And you may also get similar symptoms if your experiencing a undercharging scenario. And welcome to the Forum.


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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry,
I meant the voltage was good when machine was off and with the throttle slighty on.
 

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Sorry,
I meant the voltage was good when machine was off and with the throttle slighty on.
What do you mean “the voltage was good when machine was off and the throttle is slightly on..?” Trying to understand and make sense of what you just said. Reason being it’s hard to take a proper voltage reading when you said the “machine was off”.


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Discussion Starter #11
When the machine was turned off, the voltage was around 14.2 . At engine idling the voltage was about 14.5. With the engine slightly revved, the voltage read 14.7 at most.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So... thinking about it more, i replaced the carb with an aftermarket carb that is compatable the vehicle and had the same outcome. Do you think that the magnets have fallen off the flywheel? Would that give the vehicle the problems Im having?
 

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First off, aftermarket carbs on any Suzuki atv will often give you more issues then their worth. I know on the 250 QR and 300 KQ, these models are real finicky and won’t run right on anything other then OEM carburetors. I’m assuming you will have a similar outcome with your Eiger. And I believe I had mentioned this in one of my previous posts but you never acknowledged you had checked it. But have you checked the valves at all..? Lastly, the Eigers were known for the magnets coming unglued from the flywheel. If you haven’t checked this yet, I would as least do so to rule that out before proceeding any further.


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Unless a switched off 12 volt vehicle is having its battery voltage checked immediately after being hooked up to a charger and temporarily reading an excessive figure, it should read a full charge of no more than 12.65 or so volts. A static reading of 14.2 volts is unusually high and a running voltage of 14.7 is also high. I would take a second reading with a different voltmeter as I think that one is way out of calibration. Or take it out to your primary vehicle and try it on that too. If it reads over 12.65 for that battery too then that meter is suspect. :)
 
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