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Discussion Starter #21
I matched the clip on the new rod with the old rod. The spacers are in the same place as they were when I put in new jets, etc. Moving the C-clip up or down has what effect?
 

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It makes the mid and upper range leaner or richer
move the clip up....leaner
move it down....richer
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Pulled the plug, which is new, and cleaned it up as best I could. Most of the carbon came off.
Pulled the carb and set the mix to 2 1/2 turns (I have a carb srewdriver on the way from Amazon).
Drained the fuel bowl in the process when I pulled the carb.

Put it all back. Fired up. When I went to cover the air box side of the carb it started to choke down and finally quit when I got most of it covered.
Started it back up. Let it warm up for a few minutes and the throttle worked okay. Gave it throttle and it rev'd right up.
Jumped on it and ran it around the back yard a couple of minutes. Stopped, put it 4 wheel low. Ran fine. Put it back in 2 wheel, then it started to cough.
Parked it and pulled the plug, which was dry. It was black as could be, covered in carbon. That's a lot of carbon build up on a plug that was clean. That would definitely cause problems.

I think it's time to run Seafoam through it as I'm beginning to think the carb isn't the problem.
 

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Good luck on the carb screwdriver.....I have not seen one yet that would get into the space under the carb on a King Quad 300
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Had to take a break from it to help my parents take care of some things. Recap:

New from a Shindy rebuild kit (names from Suzuki schematic): main jet, pilot jet, pilot screw (fuel/air mix), needle valve assembly (valve under the float), jet needle, pilot air jet, choke plunger assembly. Kit didn't come with a needle jet.

Also replaced float, diaphragm spring, fuel pump, fuel lines and added a filter.

Set the clip on the jet needle in the middle position. Pilot screw is 2 1/2 turns out.

Took it apart again today, shot some air through the passage ways. Came across one tube inside the fuel bowl that didn't blow clean. Took a thin piece of wire and worked it in there. Now if I lightly blow air through it I can hear it leak through. Not sure what it does since I can't find it on a schematic. It was definitely stopped up though. Still stopped up a bit in my opinion. Mild attempt to remove it, but it didn't budge. Can it be taken out? In face, can both of those tubes be taken out?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So I took it apart again. Shot some more carb cleaner through it. Noticed that I couldn't get air flow through the pilot jet after I put it back in. Took a small wire and ran it through the 3 holes that are above the pilot jet on the intake side. Had to hold the throttle wide open to get the butterfly out of the way. Put it all back together and this is what it does now.

 

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Is there an alignment tab on your diaphragm ? Also...check to see if youre getting an air leak where the carb meets the motor. Also check to see if your choke cable is sticking. When my King quad choke is on...it gets slow to return to idle even if its partially on.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I made the mistake with the diaphragm tab early on, now I triple check to make sure it's where it belongs and that it seats properly. I'll have to check tomorrow on the leak. I took the choke cable off the carb this past weekend. Couldn't keep it running without holding the throttle (which I expected). Cable operates like it should. I took my compressor and shot air through it, but not sure if the choke still isn't a problem. That tube I mentioned in post #25 still doesn't flow a great of air through it, at least not what I expect. It's less air than through a coffee stirrer that's pinched a bit.

I've noticed that if I turn the idle adjust on the carb, to the point that I think it's about to stall while idling, then let it sit for a sec or two, then I can get some throttle response and it'll rev like it should, but it's short-lived. Whew, what a run on sentence that was.
 

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I added a fuel filter between the carb & fuel pump.
Newbie here to the Suzuki system... but wouldn't it be better to have a filter between the tank and fuel pump??? Keep trash out of pump passages?


Also wondered, if you kept your tank on full side and level above the carb if it could gravity feed to the carb to test a faulty fuel pump???


Bruce
 

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You can do a gravity test by setting the fuel petcock to the Pri position, (Prime). On this setting fuel is essentially gravity fed. This setting often allows you to do some fuel delivery troubleshooting to rule out a faulty fuel petcock, etc. But do not leave the fuel petcock set in the Pri position with the quad not running as you may contaminate you're oil. That's because in the Pri position fuel flows regardless of if the engine is running or not.

As for your fuel filter. You can put one wherever you have ample room to do so. I don't think it really matters much as to where you put it seeing the fuel petcock has fine screened pick-up tubes inside the tank to filter out sediment before fuel leaves the tank. But an added filtration system never hurts. I've never had one on my 300 KQ. And I've never had any issues with my carb in 17 years. All depends on the circumstances or if you use jerry cans that sometime collect sediment over the years. But I also always use a large funnel with a fine mesh screen when filing my quad to avoid this very scenario.


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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I put it after fuel pump because that section of line provided a bit more accessibility than the line from the petcock to the fuel pump.

Petcock is fine. I've got fuel flowing from the pump w/o problem.

So stopped by a quad mechanic this afternoon to show him the problem. Told him all I've done with it. After I started it up and he heard it run for a bit then heard the bog down on throttle, he said it's not the carb. He mentioned he'd seen this happen with the reverse lockout/limiter switch. He told me they put that limiter there to keep people from being stupid in reverse. Not sure where that'd be located, but I'll give it a shot and disconnect it if I can find it. Only thing I can find in the Clymer manual is a reverse switch that looks like it only goes to the backup light and to neutral switch. Don't know where that'd be located on the quad though.

He asked about electronics. Told him there's a CDI but it checked out fine. He said I should look at it again.

So, any ideas where that reverse limiter switch might be located? Under the plastic near the reverse shifter? And once the sun gets lower on the horizon and it cools down to something other than boiling, I'll go check the CDI out again.
 

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I don't believe you're going to find one.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The sun set enough and the temp dropped to death by dehydration level, but the bloodsuckers are starting to come out, so I took the CDI off, but couldn't find any reverse limiter switch that the mechanic was talking about. Went to test the CDI again.

1st thing I did, was put a new plug on the end of the wire and checked the spark. The spark jumps about a 1/4 inch and is visible. Spark isn't the problem.

2nd, I pulled the CDI and hooked up my meter, but I'm not getting the numbers I think I should get. Attached is what the Clymer manual says they should be. I've got nothing of the sort happening now, but I get a heck of a spark off the plug. So I'm confused as to whether the CDI is good or bad. If it's bad I shouldn't get a good spark at all, right?

Or can it give a good spark, but the rest of the unit is shot? Clymer manual says that if it gives off a fat, blue spark then the CDI is good, but then the resistance readings are about double what the manual says in some and less (or non-existent) for others. I'll see if the local Suzuki dealer can test the CDI, but I'm inclined to think it's good based on the spark.

Which would in turn should mean the everything down that line is good (coil, etc.). BTW, anyone happen to have the actual shop manual for this quad, or know where to get it? I'd like to see what the shop manual says the CDI should test at.
 

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I agree with TC. I think your mechanic is lacking a little knowledge when it comes to these quads. Cause I've never seen a reverse limiter on the older Quadruners or King Quads. And I know mine doesn't have one. The newer Suzuki's do. So yeah, good luck finding one.


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Discussion Starter #37
Okay, I can't find anything on a schematic about a reverse limiter. The only reverse switch I can find is the switch that turns on the reverse indicator light on the instrument cluster. Called the Suzuki dealer and they can't check the CDI w/o having a good one for a baseline. I thought that was odd. They have access to all the Suzuki shop manuals and should be able to cross check tested values against the shop manual.

BTW, can anyone confirm that if I'm getting a good spark that I can rule out the CDI? The manual from Clymer says a good spark indicates the CDI is good, but this wouldn't be the first time I've had an aftermarket manual have wrong info.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
LT4WDinNY,

If the tank is full, you might be able to get it to gravity feed with the petcock in Pri position. I say might because the fuel pump on my quad is located at roughly the same height that would be 2/3 of full tank.

Here's what I did to test fuel delivery:

1 - Make sure vacuum lines are good. (I replaced mine because they were old and stiff with some cracks showing) Check the fuel lines. (Again, I replaced mine)
2 - Make sure you can get vacuum from the carb to the fuel pump and petcock.
3 - Set the petcock to Pri position and have enough gas in the tank. You don't need vacuum in Pri position.
4 - With the petcock in Pri position, check the fuel line that runs from petcock to fuel pump to see if gas flows out. If it does, reconnect the fuel line, petcock is good (while in Pri position). If not, replace or rebuild/clean the petcock, and check the screens on the petcock tubes.
5 - Take the line that runs from the fuel pump to the carb, disconnect from the carb and run it to something to collect gas in. Something not made of styrofoam. :)
5 - Start turning the engine over, or if it'll start, start the quad.

If everything is working properly, then the line that you disconnected from the carb should start pumping gas into the container. If not, then rebuild or replace the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
The washer that sits below the clip on the needle, is it supposed to stay in place at the bottom of the slide while the needle rides up and down?

Or does it ride up and down with the needle?

That lower washer is will stick in place on the needle where it starts to tapper, about a 3/8 of inch below the clip. It's a new washer. I don't remember on the old needle where that washer ended up, if it was seated under the clip or further down the needle.

BTW, the needle slides very easy using the old washer, from the clip downwards.
 

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It's supposed to be against the clip
 
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