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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am still having issues with my oil temp light, coming on after riding my atv. I just got it back from the shop, a week ago they adjusted the valves, and rebuilt and reset carb and it runs fine not running lean and oil has been changed three times, and no obstructions, in the oil flow, new oil cooler. I have also checked the screen in the bottom of it it’s clean as can be. So what else could be the problem, the oil cooler is getting plenty of airflow to it and oil temp sensor is new so what is wrong with it ? Please someone has to know the answer I’m tired of throwing money in it blindly.
 

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Have you checked the wiring and connector, perhaps its shorting out somewhere when you ride triggering the oil light. If you have a temperature gun you could also check to see if its really over heating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you checked the wiring and connector, perhaps its shorting out somewhere when you ride triggering the oil light. If you have a temperature gun you could also check to see if its really over heating.
I’ve checked, the wiring and connector it seems fine.I’m still waiting on my temp gun to come in that I ordered.
 

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I am still having issues with my oil temp light, coming on after riding my atv. I just got it back from the shop, a week ago they adjusted the valves, and rebuilt and reset carb and it runs fine not running lean and oil has been changed three times, and no obstructions, in the oil flow, new oil cooler. I have also checked the screen in the bottom of it it’s clean as can be. So what else could be the problem, the oil cooler is getting plenty of airflow to it and oil temp sensor is new so what is wrong with it ? Please someone has to know the answer I’m tired of throwing money in it blindly.
Start eliminating one variable at at time. I'd verify the oil temp is too high with another thermometer. If it is too high (240*), then I'd probably bypass the oil cooler (possible occlusion). Also, check the oil pressure to make sure you have good flow. Clean the engines cooling fins and make sure you have unrestricted air flow to the engine. One variable at a time until you can find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Start eliminating one variable at at time. I'd verify the oil temp is too high with another thermometer. If it is too high (240*), then I'd probably bypass the oil cooler (possible occlusion). Also, check the oil pressure to make sure you have good flow. Clean the engines cooling fins and make sure you have unrestricted air flow to the engine. One variable at a time until you can find it.
Engine cooling fins have been pressure washed. Oil cooler is new and shop, tested oil pressure it has really good pressure they didn’t even understand why it was doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Engine cooling fins have been pressure washed. Oil cooler is new and shop, tested oil pressure it has really good pressure they didn’t even understand why it was doing it.
And not sure how to go about bypassing the oil cooler
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And not sure how to go about bypassing the oil cooler
I know the shop, had mentioned that it was a little noisy, when shifting possible, clutch slippage, which they adjusted the clutch but still no change in that
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know the shop, had mentioned that it was a little noisy, when shifting possible, clutch slippage, which they adjusted the clutch but still no change in that
I also have been having issues with it, almost breaking my foot when, I try to up shift it into second, for some reason goes into 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th fine but second I have to use my hand ?
 

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I’ve always worn steel toe boots when I ride my 300 for the fact the shifter hurts my toes. With steel toe boots on I don’t have any issues with hurting my toes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’ve always worn steel toe boots when I ride my 300 for the fact the shifter hurts my toes. With steel toe boots on I don’t have any issues with hurting my toes.
I mean, it doesn’t want to go into second gear, I have to force it, by grabbing the shift lever by hand to pop it in second all other gears are fine. I appreciate the idea,to use steel toes when I ride but I was born severe club footed and can’t wear steel toes at all.
 

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I get that, I was just stating under normal circumstances I wear steel toe boots cause it hurts my toes regardless. But if your having to use that much force to get it into 2nd gear then it sounds like you may have a more serious issues on your hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I get that, I was just stating under normal circumstances I wear steel toe boots cause it hurts my toes regardless. But if your having to use that much force to get it into 2nd gear then it sounds like you may have a more serious issues on your hand.
Yea, I have realized that, this thing is becoming a money pit honestly, and I’m about tapped out on money
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea, I have realized that, this thing is becoming a money pit honestly, and I’m about tapped out on money
Not to mention, it still overheats, and rear brakes are new, but don’t work for some reason, and muffler rattles while in gear internally, not in neutral at idle. I’ve had it in the shop four times since last year and still having all the issues with it. Invested over 1800 in it already
 

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Not to mention, it still overheats, and rear brakes are new, but don’t work for some reason, and muffler rattles while in gear internally, not in neutral at idle. I’ve had it in the shop four times since last year and still having all the issues with it. Invested over 1800 in it already
Try a cheap oil temp dipstick to verify the oil temp is high and the sensor/light is working. Also, make sure to run the right temp spark plug. You may even go up one number for the temp. What are the symptoms of it "overheating"? I bet you're over thinking it. Have a friend look at it too.
 

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Yikes, that’s a lot of dough to have dished out and it’s still not working correctly. I feel your desire to try and get it up and running. I’d probably do the same in your shoes. But at some point you need to stop the bleeding. The fact that 2nd gear takes force to engaged leads me to believe you have an issue within a gear or something within the crankcase. That alone would be a big job trying to find the source and fix it correctly.

Then you still have the overheating problem and a rattle inside you muffler. The muffler can be dealt with fairly easy by replacing the muffler. But your other two main issues is what really needs to be addressed. So your pretty much at the point where your ask yourself is it worth pushing on and throwing more money at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’m still waiting, on a temp gun, that I ordered, and I know the oil sensor light is working properly, because it lights up, when hitting the start button, and goes off once quad is idling, then after riding it for about 45 minutes it kicks the light on, and it stays on until I let it sit for at least an hour. I just replaced the sensor it’s brand new, my friend has looked at it and said it’s definitely getting the oil to hot but he’s not sure why. And I’m using the right plug for it de7ea ngk, I’ve also tried the higher temp plug the Ngk de8ea and still same result oil is freshly changed Suzuki brand 10w-40 motorcycle oil r5000, new oil cooler, good pressure good flow, engines been pressure washed so fins are clean, carb is set right, but I’ve been having some shifting issues with it, and the muffler rattles internally while riding, but not in neutral so I’m not sure what’s going on
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yikes, that’s a lot of dough to have dished out and it’s still not working correctly. I feel your desire to try and get it up and running. I’d probably do the same in your shoes. But at some point you need to stop the bleeding. The fact that 2nd gear takes force to engaged leads me to believe you have an issue within a gear or something within the crankcase. That alone would be a big job trying to find the source and fix it correctly.

Then you still have the overheating problem and a rattle inside you muffler. The muffler can be dealt with fairly easy by replacing the muffler. But your other two main issues is what really needs to be addressed. So your pretty much at the point where your ask yourself is it worth pushing on and throwing more money at it.
Yes, but like I’ve mentioned before I rode this same quad, when I was 4 years old, when my grandpa owned it new and he never had any problems, then he passed in 2011, my grandma sold it outside the family, and I was blessed enough to end up trading a race quad for it, not knowing it was the exact one, that my grandpa owned until I seen the marks on the plastics where he used to cut wood of the back of it. So it sentimental to my family and I
 

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Another possibility now that you mentioned it is your muffler. You said your muffler rattles at idle. If you have a broken baffle within your muffler it might be causing enough resistance to where you are not expelling the proper amount of exhaust gases because it is partially or fully restricted. Given all the other avenues you’ve taken this is the only other thing I can think of. Though I’d hate to see you dish out money on a muffler only to find out it did absolutely nothing. It honestly sucks cause your kinda in a tough spot. Do you keep pressing on or quit while your ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another possibility now that you mentioned it is your muffler. You said your muffler rattles at idle. If you have a broken baffle within your muffler it might be causing enough resistance to where you are not expelling the proper amount of exhaust gases because it is partially or fully restricted. Given all the other avenues you’ve taken this is the only other thing I can think of. Though I’d hate to see you dish out money on a muffler only to find out it did absolutely nothing. It honestly sucks cause your kinda in a tough spot. Do you keep pressing on or quit while your ahead.
I’ve been looking for a muffler for it, but can’t seem to find a decent priced one, plus I don’t have a welder, to weld it on and money, is a major issue right now for me, and I have had a guy, tell me it could be where it’s having issues shifting, causing the motor, to over work itself, to cause it to overheat as well.
 

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I’m assuming you meant D7EA, not DE7EA..? NGK D7EA is the correct plug, not DE7EA or DE8EA.
 
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