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Discussion Starter #1
I had a thread here a while back where my 95 King Quad wouldn't engage the starter. Popular opinion was that it was the solenoid but it was finally determined to be the starter, I had it rebuilt, and all was well.

This weekend, my son was riding and said the bike just cut off on him and was then completely dead. I've tested the battery and it has full voltage and the connections at the battery are clean and tight. However, now when we turn the key on, we get no dash lights or anything. No solenoid click when the starter button is pressed. We've checked all of the connections and fuses we can find and get to.

Before I start tearing it down again, does anyone have a detailed troubleshooting procedure, including where I could check things with a meter to trace where the power flow is getting stopped? If I'm not getting power to the dash, is that probably something early on in the wiring or even the switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont have a manual. Sort of inherited this quad and it didnt include anything but a key. How can i check those fuses with a meter and if one is bad, are they generally available auto type parts or do i have to get from a dealer or bike shop?
 

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Click the link I posted to download the manual. And thank Oxidized Black for the kind service.

Standard automotive blade fuses. A 5 and 10 amp and a spare each. If not obviously blown, check continuity with multi-meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had a chance to start looking at this problem today and found a blown fuse. There are two fuses in the battery box. One has a 15a blade fuse and appears to be fine. The other has a 20a fuse and was clearly blown (even though my son checked them earlier and said none were blown). The problem now is something is causing the fuses to blow almost immediately after turning on the key switch. I tried using the spare 20a that was there and it blew right away. I tried yet another and it also blew. Any idea where or how to look for what may be causing this???????
 

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Check the wring for any shorts or loose grounds, that can possibly be the source to your problem.
 

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Anything extra on it like a winch, hand warmers, power point?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nope, completely stock. The fact that it cutoff during a ride tells me maybe something got wet or a wire broke off somewhere, but i have no idea where to start looking. If i find it, it will be pure luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Click the link I posted to download the manual. And thank Oxidized Black for the kind service.

Standard automotive blade fuses. A 5 and 10 amp and a spare each. If not obviously blown, check continuity with multi-meter.
I will thank OB for the kind service but when I login to that website, all but one of the manuals show that they are expired and not available any longer, including the one I would need.
 

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Go to the folders tab then crack the suzuki folder.

Also WDM attached from my Clymer manual. ID your blown fuse and then isolate circuits from there. You'll need extra good fuses to test.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the help with the manuals and diagrams. I'm no electrician. But I do have a voltmeter and understand DC current. I believe the fuse that is getting blown is the "main fuse", which is a 20a fuse. I have a pack of new replacements but I have already blown 2 fuses right away and believe it is pointless to keep putting new fuses in it.

If someone could at least check me to make sure I am on the right track, it would help me feel like I am at least making progress. Looking at the diagram, it appears that power after the main fuse leads to the ignition switch and the regulator/rectifier. Do I have that right so far? If so, I have a couple of questions. First, where is the regulator located and what does it look like? Second, to trace for a bad ground, am I looking for black/white wires coming from those locations?
 

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The rectifier/regulator is located here:



Should be a small rectangular device with a wire and a quick connector at the end of it.
 

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Since you had the starter out and relay check those connections first that they are not shorted. That circuit is not fused but good to check what was touched last.

Yes you are right, the Red output wire from the Main 20A fuse goes to the regulator/rectifier and also to the ignition switch. Well actually when the generator is spinning, it is the feed charge from the regulator/rectifier to the battery. That the short happens right when you turn the ignition on and generator not spinning probably rules out an overcharge from the charging system.

The regulator/rectifier is under the fender below the right handle bar where it meets the column. Rectangle metal with cooling fins and you'll see the yellow wires coming out. There is a disconnect inline to it. Pull that then turn the ignition on. If the fuse blows, its either the wiring to that connector or in and out of the ignition switch. If the fuse does not blow, it is either an internal short (bad diode) in the regulator/rectifier or beyond.

You should have your front fender removed by now. I can't think of a way you can check with out using the fuses. You will pick up continuity to ground shooting from the fuse receptacle out to the system. Mine is about 6.5 ohms with the ignition switch on. If yours is significantly less, that might be the tell. Certainly a bonafide short would be a lot less ohms.
 

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Good pic AJ. And here I was trying to describe the location in 500 words or less.
 

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Thanks Tim, i actually have various pictures of some of the important parts and locations for this purpose exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks. I dont have the front taken apart yet. I like to have some idea of what i am trying to accomplish and how before digging in and making things worse. I would like to check the ignition switch first. How do i get to it, just take the screw out of the housing?

As for the fuses, i realize i will have to use them for troubleshooting. I only meant i didnt want to just keep throwing fuses at it without looking further.
 

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Yeah should be 2 screws in the housing. Might be some other little bits to take apart in there too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'll take one more stab here to see if this might be a clue to anything. I've tried to check every connection I can get to (which isn't many), including the recently reconnected starter cables and I don't see anything that has come loose or gotten cut or broken.

Anyway, I just went out and put a new 20a fuse in the main. I turned the key on and the dash lights lit up as normal. I thought something had changed because before the lights would come on for a second, the fuse would blow, and everything would go dead again. This time everything stayed on. Until I hit the start button. The starter turned over and didn't crank (not unusual on the first try), but then the fuse blew again. I put another new fuse in it, and when I turned the key on it blew immediately again, just like before. Would this point to anything specific?

If not, I guess it'll sit and rot or go to someone that knows more about what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Tim, I didn't until you mentioned it. There was one screw in the back of the speedometer/switch housing that was being stubborn but I finally got it out. I traced the start switch cable from the connector, down the wire that was stuffed down into the front of the bike at the neck and then disassembled the start switch housing. The connector in the speedo housing seemed to be firm but I disconnected it, put a new fuse in and it didn't blow. I examined the wire bundle closely all the way from the connector to the start switch and didn't see any kinked or scraped or cut wires. The wire bundle wrap was also completely intact with no holes or cuts in it. So, with the wires still pulled out as far as I could get them, I plugged the start switch connector back in and turned on the key. The fuse did not blow. I was able to start the bike right up and it ran fine. I put everything back together and it still started and ran fine. With the bike idling, I wiggled and jiggled every wire I could find and cut the handlebars full lock left and then right, still no problem. Took it for a test ride and it's still running fine.

All I can imagine is that there was a connection that had worked its way loose somehow or a wire was getting pinched at a weak point. I wish I had found a solid reason for the problem so I could feel better about the fix. But the bottom line is the bike is running again and my son will be very excited when he gets home from school. Just in time for the weekend after a long week of school, soccer practice and games.

Thanks for the support and suggestions here.
 
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