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Looking at color coding diagram from Suzuki, the important ones there that I can identify are:

B = Main line to Ignition coil
B/Y = Engine stop switch.
B/R = Main line from Magneto (ignition charge)
Bl = Pickup Coil (ignition trigger) (blue)
B/W = Ground

I can't imagine what the 6th line would be for on a 6 wire system.

I'm currently looking for a complete diagram of the wiring for my 1990 LT-4WD. So I'm sure I'll be able to identify what everything does pretty soon.

Not even going to guess what these are until I get a diagram.
W/L
L
G
 

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ok, so looking at the two wiring diagrams, I'm pretty sure this is how the CDI's are wired.

1988, 1989
W/L Ignition Coil
L Goes to Mag (trigger)
B Goes to Mag (trigger common)
G Goes to Mag G/W (probably charge common)
B/R Goes to Mag B/W (Charge)
B/Y Ignition Switch
B/W Ground

note:
The charge and trigger circuits are isolated A/C circuits in this case. So the L and B lines can actually be put on backwards and it should still work....UNLESS One or the other is grounded inside the Mag. Same with the G and B/R. I wouldn't do it, but in theory it is possible.

It would be good to know if either of the wires are grounded inside the Mag. If, for example, G and B are both grounded, you can use a 1990 CDI and just ignore those wires.

1990-1998

G Goes to Mag, probably Trigger
B/L Goes to Mag, probably Charge
W/L Ignition coil
O Engine Switch
B/W Ground

In the 1990-1998 models they went back to engine ground for all circuits.
 

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Missing at least two shift forks and at least 1 gear. I'm going to be putting mine back together this week and can take some pictures as I do. First time for me, but I'm pretty sure I can get it back together correctly (have the manual).
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok put fuel pump on from other one fires right up doesn't idle very good and can't touch the throttle at all plug is black as can be extreme carbon build up too much fuel right? Cleaned carb same problem maybe it needs a rebuild?
 

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Did you install a carb kit after you cleaned the carb..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I did not install carb kit I am going to try the carb from the 93 if that does not work I will rebuild carb but I have a suspicion that the cdi from the 93 has different timing than the 89 that's what it seems like I have unburned fuel coming out the exhaust and the intake. Raymond my problem was the cdi was bad and wouldn't fire at all give me some more info maybe I can help you
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Put the 93 carb on there idles nice and would idle all day if I let it. Go to give it gas bogs and chugs when you reach the same rpm every time I can ride it with just a touch of throttle but not much anyone have any ideas?
 

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Joe,
1, clean a area to tear the carb apart so IF you drop a small part you can find it.
2, Remove ALL the jets, under the main jet is a second jet, It pushes up into the
throat of the carb to remove and to reinstall use a pair of needle nose to guide in
from the top bore of the slide.
3, When you remove the brass body of the needle and seat there should be a small
thimble like screen on it. Remove it and clean it and reinstall it. It did not come in my kit and it may not in yours.
4, Soak the body and blow out making sure all passages are clear and assemble.
A kit would be wise to use , but you can get by just cleaning the carb if you use care not to damage its o rings an molded gaskets. and the needle and seat.
A cheap way to soak your carb, below link... 64 oz cost me 3 bucks at the dollar store
Worked good for me I used a gallon jug cut the top out added 64 oz and it cover the whole carb body. Soaked mine 24 hours at 12 hrs or so pulled it out brushed it hosed it off and in the juice.

http://www.suzukiatvforums.com/forums/repair-maintenance/2706-home-brewed-carb-cleaning.html
 
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