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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Helloo Bigfooty peeps...wait a minute...I'm the only Bigfooty peep around here..meh, it still stands :tongue: Today I installed a recoil starter on my 2015 750 KingQuad AXi with power steering. I ordered all the parts (which will be listed) for a 2015 KingQuad 500 AXi with power steering. I wanted to keep my models as close as possible just in case there may have been any slight differences on my engine cases. Fortunately, the Suzuki dealer I ordered my parts through said it is still the same recoil system they have been using since trees were first grown on earth :grin

When I researched this I found only on a few occasions of people saying yes it can be done and a few videos on the YouTube that showed people having it on and using it. I was not so fortunate to find any real documented steps on what to do or expect. Now having said that, it is very straight forward and very easy to do but there are a few little things that this documentary might offer to help save some people some time and maybe help make the job easier. So let's dive in!

Over the following posts, I will supply photos of everything I have done and what little things to expect. I have about a total of 22 photos so this should cover everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
When I started this mini project, I ordered all new parts. I wasn't interested in trying to hunt down the parts and hope they were going to be mechanically sound. So, what you need are as follows (see photo)...

#1 : 18100-24503
STARTER ASSY, RECOIL

#9 : 18410-09F02
CUP, STARTER

#10 : 09280-12009
O RING (D:1.9,ID:12.6)

So obviously the entire package, but the point here is to have the part numbers available rather than for someone to go hunting for them. You will see why I opted to get a new o-ring too in the following posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So to start, I removed the footwell fasteners. There are 2 screws in the outer edge of the fenders secured in place by a rubber well nut. These screws were a little bit tough to get out because there is going to be trail dust and dried mud in there. In the footwell itself there are 2 bolts, the rest is held in place by way of the Phillips style plastic rivet inserts. They are threaded and can be easily screwed out.

Once the footwell is removed you get access to the recoil cover that Suzuki so conveniently added on there so as to say "it's not supposed to have a recoil starter...but we will leave your imagination up to what can be done here" hehe :) After removal of that black cover, there is a round spacer with 2 flats on it and held on by a nut. I used an adjustable wrench to hold that sleeve and a 3/8 ratchet to release the nut. You can see inside the nut is the o-ring mentioned in the parts list. This is why I purchased the new o-ring, I was not interested in finding a possibly damaged o-ring or damaging it myself not knowing exactly how it was supposed to be installed. My initial thoughts when seeing the parts break-down were that the o-ring is compressed against a shoulder behind the starter cup. I'm glad I bought that new one when I saw the original was tucked inside the collar.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Next was to add a little lube to the new o-ring and set into the starter cup, it is a surprisingly finicky little area to get such a size of o-ring into. Digging out the original one would have been tricky to do without damaging it. For the lube, I used a touch of my high quality Maxima Marine Pro 2 stroke oil. It worked out very well, I also gave the outside of the starter cup a light coating too as an extra layer of slip when installing into the case seal.

Next you will see the spline pattern. It was dry on my engine which I understand when there is no load placed against it as the collar is just there to be a surface for the case seal. But because I am installing the starter now, there will be some good load placed against the splines as I pull over the wheeler. So I opted to use some OMC Triple Guard EP wheel bearing grease. It is good and tacky, waterproof and just a good high quality grease. I also added some to the seal to help keep it happy and waterproofed.

The next step was to mesh up the spline and set in the starter cup, before I installed it though you will also notice I added some blue thread locker on the end of the shaft. Blue thread locker is one of the best things to use for a great many things. It not only secures fasteners but it also seals them and prevents corrosion from happening. As a freeride jet ski enthusiast, I use the blue on everything and always have nice and clean fasteners when I need to remove them. In the watercraft world, it's pretty easy to see an aluminum block get a buildup of white corrosion on bolts and fasteners, the blue has prevented this in virtually all occasions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
When installing the starter assembly, I noticed the OEM bolts have a large flange made in as a part of the bolt head. The recoil housing is made just large enough that these stock supplied bolts will impact the corner where the metal around the bolt hole folds into the starter body. To get around this I took a trip to Home Depot and picked up 4 M6 bolts and matching washers. The properly matched M6 washers are quite a bit smaller on the O.D. than the O.D. of the flange on the bolts. In the photo, you can see how the flange impacts the starter housing. I thought I could get away with maybe just needing one or two new bolts but in the end it was far better to just go with all 4. I am a big advocate for keeping things stock when it comes to fasteners because the OEMs usually use some very high quality items. As an example, my Yamaha SuperJet uses heavily chrome plated bolts. I have priced these things both through external sources and directly from Yamaha...they are super expensive no matter how you find them. In this case, because I did not want to damage the starter housing by any amount, I used the smaller M6 washers. Also, when installing this starter I found it to be very beneficial to take the time and be sure to get all the bolts hand threaded in about 5 or 6 threads first before using the 1/4 inch drive ratchet. The holes on the starter body are just barely larger than the O.D. of the M6 bolts. I had to move the body around a tiny bit to give relief to each bolt so it would thread in easily.

As an additional note, the stock supplied bolts have a threaded portion of 13.5mm long. The M6 bolts I bought from Home Depot only came in 16mm thread length. By the time I added the washer, the threaded length ended up at 14.5mm. When I measured the threads in the holes, the best I could estimate is that Suzuki threaded the holes down to 16mm deep. Beyond that there is not more thread but the holes to carry on until about 21mm overall depth.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
With the starter installed, it was time to compare the new style side cover. I wanted to have access to the oil dipstick and knowing the new side covers offer this now instead of having to remove the entire panel to get access to it, I knew it would save some time and be worth the addition. This panel was also ordered from the 500 AXi parts list. Its part number and description is 63342-31GA0-291
LID (BLACK) As You can see, both the 750 and 500 panels are identical aside from the obvious update of the new one has the oil dipstick access cutout. This panel came in with a heavy bill of an entire $19 :D

When installing this, I found that getting the footwell installed first was the easier way to do it. You can see that there is the little rubber well nut mentioned earlier at the outer edge of the fenders. The only way I have found to install these into the footwell, is to just try and pull the rubber flange toward myself and pop it through the footwell hole. They won't go from inside the well through toward the tire. It's tedious to do, I used a small flat screwdriver to help but I imagine a set of needlenose pliers would work too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With the main project completed, I thought it would be worth noting how it looks from above. In these next photos you can see that the only real protruding portion of the starter is the handle itself. It can be moved around to help it sit closer to the panel, the two photos show what it would look like if you had just used it and if it were tucked away.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
When finishing up, I happened to notice that the Phillips style plastic rivets were quite loose. A little while back I bought a set of plastic push rivets from Amazon because unfortunately I own a Toyota Tundra and on top of the laundry list of major problems I have had with it...a little annoyance had to happen. The Phillips head plastic rivets they used in the tailgate cover had fallen out. So I ordered the mentioned replacements from Amazon.ca for about $16 I believe it was and replaced them all. Tonight I found that they also fit the KingQuad very well. I also noticed that in all areas except the fenders, Suzuki used the same style everywhere else. Before I changed the original ones out though, I thought maybe trying to just tighten them up with a backer to help apply some weight against them will be enough and maintain the original hardware and look. I checked into some rubber washers I saw at Home Depot because it has been to my experience that mud water likes to leak through those rivet holes and run down the inside of the fender. Not a great thing when you really don't want to get muddy or soaked from a pant leg that touches there absorbing the water. The rubber washer idea was immediately out when I saw $2.83/washer. Plus you would also need a decent fender washer with a 3/8 hole to add for a plate to squeeze the rubber washer, and again at about $1.50 a piece...I used the new push rivets.

You can see how the original ones were just sloppy and not really doing anything. On the front side I could see about an eighth inch of space between the head of the rivet and the fender when pushed snug from behind. The new replacements are a great fit and should help keep the fenders together for a long time. If they wear out, the kit gives about 100 pieces so there are plenty to go around for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well there you have it, this was my documentary of installing a recoil starter on a 2015 KingQuad 750 AXi. As an additional note, I have done very little to this ATV. The only work done to it outside of its original configuration is a winch, heated hand warmers and thumb warmer, 27" Maxxis Mud Bugs tires and a No Toil dual stage air filter. I did have to add a couple of washers to the top of the cover though to get it to fully seal but it was a much better filter than the UNI that I originally tried. The UNI was so tall that the cover wouldn't seal, the engine noise was very boggy sounding and when going from say about 1/3 throttle to 2/3 throttle you would hear a loud "baaahhhhh" but no power change. It was not a good filter as far as fit and finish was concerned.

After the install was done I tested the starter. You need to slowly roll the engine over until you reach the compression point, then just barely squeak it past that. Then you can give it a good haul. Mine started in three pulls with an engine that has not been started since early February, so about 3 months cold and it fired right up after 3 tries. Not bad in my eyes :) I hope this helps for anyone considering this install. I personally do not like the idea of having to rely solely on a battery to get my ATV running. I have been in the woods before on my own when my battery suddenly decided it was time to retire. I do a lot of trail riding on my own and actually prefer it most times, relying on my battery exclusively to start my engine was just not confidence inspiring. This was one of the major selling points to me for buying Suzuki when I read that this is possible. Thank you Suzuki for keeping this option available even when you don't specifically say it is :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just checked with the 2018 online fiche to see if anything has changed, so far the recoil system is still the same part numbers as listed above. They also now list the recoil system as optional for the 2018 750 AXi where they did not for the 2015 and all the part numbers are still the same. The only thing they show but no part number for it is the o-ring. I'm going to say that was an oversight and it is still the same o-ring as listed above. As far as online goes, my resources do not have 2019 listed in the fiche yet. I would assume you can still do this with a 2019 model :)
 

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Is this a backup in case the starter don’t work or is this for if the battery is dead. If the battery is to dead to run the fuel pump can you still get it started? My Honda rincon 680 comes with a factory pull start but I have not tried it with a very dead battery to see if it will work. I just carry a portable jump pack with me if the battery was to get to low to start the quad. I can tell you from experience that when it gets below 30 degrees Fahrenheit that you can’t pull the starter hard enough to get it started.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
This is a backup for both a dead starter and battery. I don't like carrying around more batteries to support the original battery so I went with this mechanical route. Sometimes the jump packs are unreliable too, it's always that one time that everything as a backup fails. Somebody had forgotten to charge it, or it somehow discharged during the day or weekend out, those are the times you regret not having a mechanical means to fall back on. I hope I never need to use this but I have been caught in the woods with a battery that suddenly stopped providing enough CCA's to do the job. I'm not sure what to expect from a totally flat lined battery but at least this gives me hope :)

Edit: I wanted to add this in too, this backup starter is also for any time that there is nothing wrong with the battery or starter, but perhaps the starter solenoid for whatever reason happens to fail. I have also seen solenoids on various machines fail...crossing the posts is not only a bad idea but doesn't always work. A strictly manually operated mechanical device of this nature is the best back up solution or perhaps option is the better term :)
 

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I did my 2013 500 a few years ago. I always liked having them on my older quadrunners and kingquads. My dad had a factory one on his '08 450, so I decided I wanted one on my '13. I just bought the recoil unit and cup from a part-out on ebay. (I can't even remember what year it was from now.) I used the o-ring from my old piece that engaged the splines, just because it looked better than the one that came on the cup. It was super easy to get out. I just used a small pick. I wouldn't mind having a new style plastic cover, just to make checking the oil a little easier. I don't know if they had those yet when I did mine. No big deal, though. I just used the old one. I do remember, though... the first time I pulled the recoil starter, it started right up. I don't know if i'll ever need it, but it just felt better to have it on there.
 

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I'm told a pull start can't be put on a 2013 model 500axi?
 

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It works! Thanks Bigfoot for this great info! Any one try the pull start with a dead battery?
 
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