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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve recently encountered a strange issue with my 2014 KQ 750 that I’m hoping to get some help with.

Basically, the quad stalls the instant the power steering engages. I have 13.8-14v at the battery while running and 13v with the key off. The problem goes away when I disconnect the small ground wire from the EPS module.

The battery is brand new and I only have 300 miles on it. Is it possible that a small drop in voltage is causing a fuel cut to the fuel injection or something. I’m a bit stumped.
 

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Its a long shot but as its 5 years old, check the harness for wear spots around the column in case its rubbed through, if it cuts when you steer. Alternatively, if you raise the front off the ground does it then steer without fault? Maybe the motor is struggling when loaded? If you can reach the cable, disconnect the PS motor and try. I reckon its a case of pinpointing the exact symptom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its a long shot but as its 5 years old, check the harness for wear spots around the column in case its rubbed through, if it cuts when you steer. Alternatively, if you raise the front off the ground does it then steer without fault? Maybe the motor is struggling when loaded? If you can reach the cable, disconnect the PS motor and try. I reckon its a case of pinpointing the exact symptom.
No wear spots on any wiring but the quad doesn’t die when turning with the front end off the ground.
Broke down and called the dealer and there is an ECM recall on 2014s for stalling. I’ll see it the revised unit solves the stalling by chance.
 

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Has any1 managed to find the problem with the bikes cutting out when u touch the power steering.. my bike is fine when the head lights r off but when u put them on and just slightly push the bars to make the power steer work the bike cuts out.. battery is fine and has 13.5-14v running… any help would be good
 

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Has any1 managed to find the problem with the bikes cutting out when u touch the power steering.. my bike is fine when the head lights r off but when u put them on and just slightly push the bars to make the power steer work the bike cuts out.. battery is fine and has 13.5-14v running… any help would be good
I had the same problem with my ATV and found the problem. It was the Regulator/Rectifier. Here is what happened: At first I could not determine the cause so took it to the ATV dealership. 1st they said the ignition switch was worn and battery might be weak. Wrong, that did not correct stalling. Then added ground wire to rectifier. That made the problem more intermittent. Then changed the TPS. Did not fix the problem. Then changed EPS. Seemed to fix problem (Suzuki gave me $650 refund for EPS and dealer did not charge for ignition switch, battery or TPS). But after 100 km sitting at idle it suddenly stalled again. I checked fuses, disconnected EPS and battery. Would not start, but was different than before. This time dash looked normal when I turned on the key, but no sound of fuel injector pump and no starter. I pushed it out of the way, then tried one more time to start it...it started and ran normal. Used it a few more times with out issue. Then one day (about 30 km more mileage) I go to started it battery is dead. I boosted it and got it going. Plowing my driveway I started to smell electronics burning. Stopped and disconnected battery. I determined the burning was coming from the Regulator/Rectifier. I removed the Regulator/Rectifier and checked diodes with my multi meter. The diodes were way out of spec. (Note: I have the service manual for the KING QUAD that has a chart for diode readings). I purchased a new Regulator/Rectifier from the dealer (checked it was in spec with my multimeter at the dealership before paying), installed it and resolved the stalling issue. So the Regulator/Rectifier was the root cause and continued to get worse. I am very disappointed the dealership mechanics did not figure this out up front (they had my ATV for 4 months trying the above mentioned fixes). Note: to remove Regulator/Rectifier without removing the main plastic body. You can pry the main body plastic away from frame to get just enough room for your ratchet and socket to undo 2 mounting bolts. I wedged a short 2x4 to hold the body out of the way. Hope that helps.
 

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I had the same problem with my ATV and found the problem. It was the Regulator/Rectifier. Here is what happened: At first I could not determine the cause so took it to the ATV dealership. 1st they said the ignition switch was worn and battery might be weak. Wrong, that did not correct stalling. Then added ground wire to rectifier. That made the problem more intermittent. Then changed the TPS. Did not fix the problem. Then changed EPS. Seemed to fix problem (Suzuki gave me $650 refund for EPS and dealer did not charge for ignition switch, battery or TPS). But after 100 km sitting at idle it suddenly stalled again. I checked fuses, disconnected EPS and battery. Would not start, but was different than before. This time dash looked normal when I turned on the key, but no sound of fuel injector pump and no starter. I pushed it out of the way, then tried one more time to start it...it started and ran normal. Used it a few more times with out issue. Then one day (about 30 km more mileage) I go to started it battery is dead. I boosted it and got it going. Plowing my driveway I started to smell electronics burning. Stopped and disconnected battery. I determined the burning was coming from the Regulator/Rectifier. I removed the Regulator/Rectifier and checked diodes with my multi meter. The diodes were way out of spec. (Note: I have the service manual for the KING QUAD that has a chart for diode readings). I purchased a new Regulator/Rectifier from the dealer (checked it was in spec with my multimeter at the dealership before paying), installed it and resolved the stalling issue. So the Regulator/Rectifier was the root cause and continued to get worse. I am very disappointed the dealership mechanics did not figure this out up front (they had my ATV for 4 months trying the above mentioned fixes). Note: to remove Regulator/Rectifier without removing the main plastic body. You can pry the main body plastic away from frame to get just enough room for your ratchet and socket to undo 2 mounting bolts. I wedged a short 2x4 to hold the body out of the way. Hope that helps.
Oh, just to note; I also checked my battery and charging voltages numerous times, as you did. Battery looked fine up to the end. Looks like the Regulator/Rectifier was still charging the battery until the diodes finally smoked.
 
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