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Seems like a common problem. I own a couple of 90's KQ300's. I tried the Amazon u joints. One broke right away.

Part of the issue is that Suzuki staked these parts in place. So you have to use a die grinder to get the old ones out. I guess they intended to sell the axles as an assembly only. The aftermarket parts appear to be substandard. Although some reviews are positive.

I am currently fabricating a new axle assembly with new yokes and a slightly larger spicer 1000 series u joint. I used the splines and shafts from the original parts. But I am welding in new Yokes to accept the larger u joint. I'm hoping this is a strong solution with a readily available replacement part.

The yokes are only about $12 each and the ujoints are around $15. Much less than a new axle assembly which is around $250.

Please let me know if you find any better options. I have searched also.

I did notice a ujoint source at Americancvstore.com. They list a part # atv403-3 for $21.95. I wonder if these Motormaster branded parts are better than the others on the market.
 

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Per Suzuki, the u-joints are deemed none serviceable. Meaning if their worn or go bad/break. The correct fix is to replace each axle. I had mine done several years ago. Believe it cost me around $600CAD for two new rear axles. Plus the labor on top of that.


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Agreed. New axles are the fix. But why replace an entire assembly for one ujoint failure? Ujoints are made to be replaceable. It's a part that takes the wear and tear. I don't understand the design and maintenance philosophy of this.
 

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If they have clips and grease fittings........you are probably wasting your time and money.
 

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I’ve replaced a few. I ended up buying a new unit. To get the old u joint out you can cut it in half with a torch. Drive caps inward n clean up small burs in the yoke. My biggest problem was getting everything balanced. Centering the new u joint I bought at napa was difficult because the yoke would bend silently. I tackled the caps in with a spot of weld.
I guess for me anyhow considering the rpms these shafts go and how they effort bearing wear. I do keep an extra rebuild drive shaft around for those emergency fixes. For those who have not done this I would recommend giving it a try. Give the brake a good cleaning along the way. I put the nuts n bolts I take off in a little tray with rust blaster in it and then use anti seize on them when installing. Makes working on them out in the mud much easier. Especially them older ones, I know. And you can never go wrong with knowing more about your machine.
I remember helping my buddy get his wheeler out with a R F blown u joint. Tied the flopping around shaft up with our leather belts. Had to cross a river n some guys yard to get out.
 

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If you want GOOD replacements for the outside ........POWERTRAIN INDUSTRIES....REAR OUTER U-JOINT best fit....790 x 2.071.....#9951-22
And tack weld with a washer on outside as shown below....these are as good as OEM

A search would have found this info in other threads.....I have posted this more than once.

19738
 
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If you want GOOD replacements for the outside ........POWERTRAIN INDUSTRIES....REAR OUTER U-JOINT best fit....790 x 2.071.....#9951-22
And tack weld with a washer on outside as shown below....these are as good as OEM

A search would have found this info in other threads.....I have posted this more than once.

View attachment 19738
Thanks. Good solution.
 

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The washer fits on the inside of the hole against the u-joint ...be sure the u-joints are centered in the yoke.
 

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Here is a shot of the first ujoint upgrade. I cut down the Suzuki spline and the ujoint blank. Then I faced them on the lathe. I slid a 1 inch bar (with one end turned down to about .865 to fit the inside splines) into the pieces to assure alignment. Then I welded it together to make a final assembly. This piece will fit the inside rear axle location.
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