[Nessmuk]

I own 5 King quads, 3 older 90s, a 96 and a 2000.
The 2000 needs rear outer u joints.
I'd like to do all four rear joints if there are good quality replacements available.
Any sources?

 

[Akjohn62]

Seems like a common problem. I own a couple of 90's KQ300's. I tried the Amazon u joints. One broke right away.

Part of the issue is that Suzuki staked these parts in place. So you have to use a die grinder to get the old ones out. I guess they intended to sell the axles as an assembly only. The aftermarket parts appear to be substandard. Although some reviews are positive.

I am currently fabricating a new axle assembly with new yokes and a slightly larger spicer 1000 series u joint. I used the splines and shafts from the original parts. But I am welding in new Yokes to accept the larger u joint. I'm hoping this is a strong solution with a readily available replacement part.

The yokes are only about $12 each and the ujoints are around $15. Much less than a new axle assembly which is around $250.

Please let me know if you find any better options. I have searched also.

I did notice a ujoint source at Americancvstore.com. They list a part # atv403-3 for $21.95. I wonder if these Motormaster branded parts are better than the others on the market.

 

[ajl719]

Per Suzuki, the u-joints are deemed none serviceable. Meaning if their worn or go bad/break. The correct fix is to replace each axle. I had mine done several years ago. Believe it cost me around $600CAD for two new rear axles. Plus the labor on top of that.


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[Akjohn62]

Agreed. New axles are the fix. But why replace an entire assembly for one ujoint failure? Ujoints are made to be replaceable. It's a part that takes the wear and tear. I don't understand the design and maintenance philosophy of this.

 

[TCIII]

If they have clips and grease fittings........you are probably wasting your time and money.

 

[Olblue]

I’ve replaced a few. I ended up buying a new unit. To get the old u joint out you can cut it in half with a torch. Drive caps inward n clean up small burs in the yoke. My biggest problem was getting everything balanced. Centering the new u joint I bought at napa was difficult because the yoke would bend silently. I tackled the caps in with a spot of weld.
I guess for me anyhow considering the rpms these shafts go and how they effort bearing wear. I do keep an extra rebuild drive shaft around for those emergency fixes. For those who have not done this I would recommend giving it a try. Give the brake a good cleaning along the way. I put the nuts n bolts I take off in a little tray with rust blaster in it and then use anti seize on them when installing. Makes working on them out in the mud much easier. Especially them older ones, I know. And you can never go wrong with knowing more about your machine.
I remember helping my buddy get his wheeler out with a R F blown u joint. Tied the flopping around shaft up with our leather belts. Had to cross a river n some guys yard to get out.

 

[Akjohn62]

If they have clips and grease fittings........you are probably wasting your time and money.

Yes. The available replacements have the clips and zerk fittings. They tend to break.

The upgrade to the spicer 1000 series should be better. These are used on the Razr models, I think.

 

[phillips321]

Yep, aftermarket UJs are absolute shite and a danger to use. Don't risk it.
Rear outer replaced UJ shat itself :-( [see the photos]

 

[TCIII]

If you want GOOD replacements for the outside ........POWERTRAIN INDUSTRIES....REAR OUTER U-JOINT best fit....790 x 2.071.....#9951-22
And tack weld with a washer on outside as shown below....these are as good as OEM

A search would have found this info in other threads.....I have posted this more than once.

 

[Akjohn62]

If you want GOOD replacements for the outside ........POWERTRAIN INDUSTRIES....REAR OUTER U-JOINT best fit....790 x 2.071.....#9951-22
And tack weld with a washer on outside as shown below....these are as good as OEM

A search would have found this info in other threads.....I have posted this more than once.

View attachment 19738

Thanks. Good solution.

 

[Akjohn62]

I started working with the lathe yesterday to machine the end of the new spicer 1000 yoke. My goal is to fit the factory spline coupling to the new yoke. Will post some photos as I go.

 

[Akjohn62]

The spicer 1000 ujoints are about the same width, but the cups are slightly larger.

 

[TCIII]

The washer fits on the inside of the hole against the u-joint ...be sure the u-joints are centered in the yoke.

 

[Akjohn62]

Here is a shot of the first ujoint upgrade. I cut down the Suzuki spline and the ujoint blank. Then I faced them on the lathe. I slid a 1 inch bar (with one end turned down to about .865 to fit the inside splines) into the pieces to assure alignment. Then I welded it together to make a final assembly. This piece will fit the inside rear axle location.

 

[Frank.White]

Looks legit

you couldn’t find yoke that accepts clips instead of welding/staking

 

[Akjohn62]

Looks legit

you couldn’t find yoke that accepts clips instead of welding/staking

This yoke is a spicer part that is built for spicer 1000 joints. It uses inside clips, is strong, and is widely available for replacement.

 

[Akjohn62]

This is the yoke part. 1" diameter hole. Made for round shaft with square drive key and set screw. I am machining it to accept the stock suzuki splines.

 

[Akjohn62]

Machined the old ujoint down to a round tube with the splines intact. Then I welded them into the new joint. This will be the slip joint portion of the new axle.

 

[Akjohn62]

Worked on the other sections this week. Ready for ujoints. Need to machine wheel axle end for seal diameter.

 

[phillips321]

Looking good. Hope you’ve got everything square so there are no vibrations.