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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I look forward to getting to work on this new project with you guys. I just purchased a 1997 Quad King 300 (VIN: JSAAK42A3V2104273 ) with right at 2000 miles on it. Runs great and looks good. It just isn't shifting right. I can get it into neutral and reverse but can't get it into any other gears. I wanted some guidance on where to start. The guy I purchased it from bought a brand new set of transmission gears/shafts in anticipation for it needing that. I have read of some examples where one of the gears fused to the bushing thus not allowing for gear changes. But before I open the case I wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions to check. Linkages, clutch, etc. Thanks in advance.

~Brian
 

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Check the shift linkage at the foot shifter.


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May sound dumb but I gotta rock mine back and forth to get it into gear. These bike seem to shift hard but the transmissions are supposedly indestructible
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey thanks for the feedback guys. I'll check both of these tonight and report back what I find.

~Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update:

So I tried rocking it back and forth but nothing happens. Now when I press on the foot shift nothing happens. No "clicks" liken when you change gears. I haven't had a chance to play with the linkages too much but it looks like the linkage is moving the shifter on the tranny as it should. I have the plastics off now and wheels off since I am cleaning it anyway. Doing so revealed that the guy who had it before me who wasn't mechanical inclined didn't tighten the oil filter plate and it was leaking oil so it is very low. It was full when I picked it up but it's been sitting and when I moved it I didn't see the oil until yesterday. Thankfully I didn't try to run it. Anyway, this guy also said he tried to fix the clutch and then gave be a bag of parts.

In the bag of parts I found the ball release triangular plate (item 24) So now I've got to tear into the clutch to see if the guy forgot to put it in there of if her replaced the part.

Anything else I should be looking for while I'm in there and any idea if that piece could cause it not to shift?

19455
 

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Yes. Without part 24 the clutch release balls being installed the clutch would not disengage. Since the previous owner has bought so many extra parts i wouldn't assume thats the issue yet.

Part #27 the release arm swings over when you push or pull on the foot shifter. The release arm moves part #23 the inner release ball guide. When it turns the balls ramp up and push in the clutch dissengaging it.

The foot shifter works the clutch and changes the gears. Pull up to up shift. Push down to down shift. N at the bottom then 5 up.

I'd start by checking the shift linkages. If you don't find anything wrong I'd move on to draining the oil. Then pull the clutch cover to inspect and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finally had time to get inside the clutch housing. The ball pressure plate thing was definitely not in there. Still not convinced that's the only problem. Anything else I should check while in there?
19474

19475


This part was in the bag of parts
19476


How can I check everything without fully assembling it and filling it with out and cranking it?
 

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I would look everything over. If you don't find anything wrong. Clean it. Then reassemble it. To test it you would need to have it all together.

When your assembling it. Line up the release ball guide with the release arm. After its back together adjust the clutch.

Use the correct oil. It needs to be rated sf or sg. I get motorcycle or atv oil thats wet clutch compatible and use k&n 132 oil filters.
 

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While wrenching on my bike on Friday night I was searching for a way to “lighten” the effort required to use the foot shifter. I’m doing so, I found that after you take out the shifter pivot bolt and the shifter is in your hand you can remove the shifter bushing and check how well it is greased.

I had to force mine out with a fair amount of effort. Suzuki actually sealed the bushing with O-rings so it’s a snug fit. The grease in mine was black and dry. I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and re-greased it and noticed a much smoother shifting action.

Obviously all the internals need to be in their proper place for it to shift right. I’d be tempted to disconnect the linkage at the shift shaft coming out of the engine case (BE SURE TO MAKE A WITNESS MARK FROM THE SHIFTER ARM TO THE SHIFTER SHAFT TO RE-ALIGN IT PROPERLY) and check to see if the shift lever/cable could be binding or seized. That would isolate the internal mechanism from the external mechanism.
19497
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
While wrenching on my bike on Friday night I was searching for a way to “lighten” the effort required to use the foot shifter. I’m doing so, I found that after you take out the shifter pivot bolt and the shifter is in your hand you can remove the shifter bushing and check how well it is greased.

I had to force mine out with a fair amount of effort. Suzuki actually sealed the bushing with O-rings so it’s a snug fit. The grease in mine was black and dry. I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and re-greased it and noticed a much smoother shifting action.

Obviously all the internals need to be in their proper place for it to shift right. I’d be tempted to disconnect the linkage at the shift shaft coming out of the engine case (BE SURE TO MAKE A WITNESS MARK FROM THE SHIFTER ARM TO THE SHIFTER SHAFT TO RE-ALIGN IT PROPERLY) and check to see if the shift lever/cable could be binding or seized. That would isolate the internal mechanism from the external mechanism. View attachment 19497

That's a good point about greasing the bushing I should have done that before putting the cover back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I filled it back up with oil and cranked her up and unfortunately it still won't go in gear. Now that I put the ball pressure plate thing back in I can feel the clutch engage. I need to readjust the pressure on the clutch with the little set screw and jam nut but I don't thing that is the issue.

This is hard to explain but when I had the case off I could see the shifter moving the arm (item 30) trying to engage on the plate stopper (item 20) but item 20 wasn't moving it. From my understanding this would have to rotate to change the gear but it wouldn't budge. Because this part should rotate the shift barrel. It was like here wasn't enough travel to spin the lobed thing or item 30 was hitting directly on the top of the lobe. So hard to explain.

19500
 

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I did the same as oldreliable. My quadrunner was very difficult to shift. So i pretty much checked and adjusted everything. Then i cleaned and greased the shifter. The shifter moved easier.

Good idea but it didn't help mine shift. The clutch needed to be replaced. It was slipping and for some reason wouldn't dissengage. To get it into first i had to reach down and pull up hard on the shifter. Replacing the clutch fixed that. I never figured out why it wasn't dissengaging. I think it was the cheap clutch kit the previous owner used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So after digging into it the engine is in much worse shape then I thought. Or rather the case I still couldn't get it to go into gear so I decided to just go ahead and pull the engine since I haven't you transmission set anyway might as well put it in and overhaul the engine while I'm at it. Unfortunately once I took it apart I noticed the whole bottom back end of the case is completely corroded. I've never seen anything like it the aluminum is just completely eaten away. No wonder it had an oil leak. Thankfully I was able to find a mint case on ebay for 40 bucks.

So a lot more work than I intended but oh well. Have you guys seen anything like this take a look at the pics.
 

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Wow! Never seen a case like that in my life. Seen a lot of cases lol.
Electrolysis between steel and aluminum, using moist air as an electrolyte can cause erosion.
Hydrochloric (muratic) acid will eat aluminum pretty quick, but I don't know how that would get onto the your engine. Looks like it turned the aluminum into goo like acid would though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah me either. The aluminum would just disintegrate in my hands. The inside of the case looked good though thankfully.
 

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I'd say probably electrolysis. Check over your wiring and and make sure the engine is grounded good. Check the negative battery cable and make sure there is a ground wire to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'd say probably electrolysis. Check over your wiring and and make sure the engine is grounded good. Check the negative battery cable and make sure there is a ground wire to the starter.
I think you are right. The ground to the starter was very corroded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
SOLVED
Finally got everything back together. The reason why this bike wouldn't shift actually didn't have anything to do with the transmission per say. As in the internal parts were good. What happened is that the shift drum seized to the left hand case where it rides in the hole for the shift/gear sensor. I find it very odd that the drum just sits in there and it is a metal on metal contact.. Steel shift drum riding in an aluminum hole. Therese also almost no way for oil to get in there either. I'm surprised more of these shift issues aren't because of this. Even on a "new" shift drum and new case it wasn't a very smooth contact. The other end of the shift drum does have a bearing which seems better. Had I not needed to do anything else I might have been able to just take out the shift sensor and hit it with some penetrating oil to free it up. Anyway I write this so maybe someone else with a difficult time shifting may check this as it is an "easy" fix.

Once I had it all together I had some idling issues where it kept fluttering and then would die with a fuel fouled plug. Rebuilt the carb which I had plan to do anyways and the problem persisted. It ended up being a bad petcock. There was fuel coming from the vacuum line from the petcock to the carb. So I replaced the petcock as well.

I don't think there is a part on this bike that I haven't touched. Almost a complete restoration. All new seals, gasket, replaced rusted fasteners, boots, cleaned everything, stripped and repainted most parts showing rust and a new seat cover to boot. I still need to replace the front CV boots and redcoat the front wheels.
 
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