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1992 Suzuki Quadrunner LTF 4WDX Will Not Go Into Neutral

417 Views 19 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  John1960
Hi, just purchased. Has been sitting under a deck for years. Cannot get it to roll. Winched it into trailer to get it home. Reverse gear moves. Will not go into Differential Lock, nor Super Low, but other four settings seem to work. Gear selector moves two up and two down only. Where would a person start with such an issue without first taking the engine/transmission out? No battery and previous owner is bringing me the key(forgot to give it to me), but I assume without these, I should still be able to click it down into neutral, so I can roll it off the trailer. Engine turns over, but previous owner wasn’t able to get it started, hence the sale.
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Yes, it should still go into neutral even if the engine isn’t running. Every time I shut my 300 off I always put it in neutral. So I can simply push or pull it a few feet if I need to.

So try this method and see if you can get it into neutral. First sit on the bike even if it’s in your trailer. Now grab the handlebars with both hands then use your body weight to rock the atv back and forth while pushing down on the foot shifter. Most times this works but it may not either.

And without a battery it would be hard to tell once it’s in neutral. Though you should be able to physically tell once you’ve successfully hit neutral. Start by trying to get it off your trailer and into neutral then we’ll go from there. And welcome to the Forum.
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Hi, looking at it more, I feel like it is actually in neutral because it is letting me put the lever in reverse. If I pull up on the shifter one click, I can no longer put the lever in reverse, so I am guessing I am now in first. The wheels are locked solid. I am going to remove the right rear and see if it is the brakes that are seized. If the parking brake was on, or the brake was seized, would the left rear spin when jacked up? Nothing moves when I jack it up, so I am wondering if this is normal or is it just the right rear wheel that doesn’t move when the brakes are applied., if everything is working as it should. Thanks for the welcome. Appreciate it.
If you can pull the lever back to engage reverse then you’re in neutral. Once you click 1st gear you shouldn’t physically be able to shift into reverse at all. So yes, that sounds like your in neutral.

And the rear end is locked, so both axles turn at the exact same speed. So one wheel won’t spin without engaging the other. As for the rear brakes. There is only one right rear drum/shoes on the right rear wheel. The left wheel has nothing. So check for seized brakes then go from there. But unlike the front brakes which are hydraulic, the rear is a simple cable “mechanical” style system. It’s a very finicky design which can work ok or not at all. Do you have the whole atv jacked up, “wheels off the ground”..?
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I am unable to get the wheel hub off. Any suggestions? I assume it comes off and then the brake drum as a separate piece. I just have the rear wheels off the ground. I was able to get the bike off the trailer with a jack.

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Have you tried lightly tapping it with a hammer to see if it’ll budge..? I believe once you get that off there’s another type drum underneath. Can’t remember exactly, it’s been a while, I’ll have to check.
Yes, I hit it quite hard with a rubber mallet. I put the nut on and hit that and the axle moved inwards. I have the service manual and first look through, I can’t see where they say how it comes apart. I assume that hub sits on a spline and it is rusted on possibly.
It's possible that the pedal pivot is frozen in the applied position. Will it move up and down? If not take the cable free.
I used a puller and heat and got the wheel hub off. Now the brake drum in behind that won’t budge. Sprayed it down with release fluid and will go back at it. Hopefully I didn’t do too much damage, but it wasn’t budging. The brakes are seized, I think. I am going to reread the service manual and see if I can at least unhook the cable in behind.
Dang. Don't get in a hurry with it. Soak the bejesus out of it and tap on it and let it sit. Once the cables off you may be able ble to work the lever back and forth some to move the cam inside, and possibly get the shoes to move. It may also be the splines on the shaft. I'd pull the axle and swing arm loose so you can put the whole thing on a bench.
It won't be the end of the world if you have to cut it off. Everything is available on flea bay used for reasonable money.
I never thought I could take that off like that. Thanks for the advice! I may look at that option tomorrow. I sprayed it down good and letting that work it’s way in.
Two bolts for the swing arm, and 2 for the shock. The cv joint has a ring around the outside of the part that goes inside the transmission case. When it's installed you'll feel it snap into place. To get it out, put a wide blade screwdriver between the two and kinda push or however to get it to pop out. Don't grab the shaft and start yanking. Once you do it, you'll be amazed how easy it was. Lightly tap the screwdriver in the slot. Maybe a paint scraper to start.
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I think the rear drum brake shoes have an adjustment. A star gear from the back? Have you tried backing that adjustment off?
Thanks for the help. I didn’t realize but this bike is a 300, not a 250. I don’t have the registration yet. I’m going to try all these techniques and will get back, as I suspect it is similar between the two. The previous owner said it was a 250, and that explains why I wasn’t seeing the proper diagram in the service manual in one of my earlier posts above.
280 cc vs 246 cc. 5 lug vs 4 lug in the rear. Oil cooler vs not. Very similar otherwise.
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Success!!! I quenched it, and the drum is now turning on the shoes. It wouldn’t come off so I put the PB Blaster to it, and I’m sure it will come off tomorrow. I am now able to turn the back wheels. I was worried it was the transmission. Huge relief.
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That’s awesome. Glad to hear your making progress and that it doesn’t appear to be internal.
Hi guys, I took the rear drum, and shoes and brake arm off, and was able to heat the spline of the brake camshaft and get the brake camshaft moving with vicegrips. I ended up taking the camshaft out and hoping to smooth it out with an emery cloth. The drum is rusted where the shoes seized against it. Should that be replaced? I suspect that will just tear new shoes apart. Where do you guys buy shoes and parts like a drum? Do you go right to Suzuki or do you go to eBay for knockoffs?
Hi guys, I took the rear drum, and shoes and brake arm off, and was able to heat the spline of the brake camshaft and get the brake camshaft moving with vicegrips. I ended up taking the camshaft out and hoping to smooth it out with an emery cloth. The drum is rusted where the shoes seized against it. Should that be replaced? I suspect that will just tear new shoes apart. Where do you guys buy shoes and parts like a drum? Do you go right to Suzuki or do you go to eBay for knockoffs?
Glad it worked out for you. Post some pictures of the drum and perhaps we can guide you along.

Doubt you will find new parts for a 92 in a Suzuki parts house. Possibly find some NOS (New Old Stock) on EBay if you were really lucky.

Step by step, post pictures and then the need can be addressed. Powersports Nation may have some used parts available also If needed.
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