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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I have a small oil leak in my Kingquad. Does anyone have idea where this might be coming from? Its abit tough to see but you can see it at the bottom of the engine, just to the right of the rear brake cable. The brown stream of oil running out
IMG_20210428_202009310.jpg
 

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Hard to tell. It looks real oily by the front u-joint. But it also looks like oil has been running down the side of the engine. Is the oil I see on the side of the engine coming from one of the valve inspection caps..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hard to tell. It looks real oily by the front u-joint. But it also looks like oil has been running down the side of the engine. Is the oil I see on the side of the engine coming from one of the valve inspection caps..?
Heres the same picture highlighted where I can see the oil coming from. When the bike is running oil starts to slowly leak from here
Kingquad1.jpg
 

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From where you say the oil is coming from, looks like it may be a leaky head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From where you say the oil is coming from, looks like it may be a leaky head gasket.
Is it worth changing the gasket? Or run it like this and top up oil as needed? The bike runs great otherwise
 

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If it runs fine and the leak isn’t excessive. You’ll do no damage running it the way it is. Just check the oil before each ride and pay close attention to the leak to make sure it doesn’t get any worse. If it does, I highly recommended you change the head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it runs fine and the leak isn’t excessive. You’ll do no damage running it the way it is. Just check the oil before each ride and pay close attention to the leak to make sure it doesn’t get any worse. If it does, I highly recommended you change the head gasket.
Thanks for the info. Is there a product I can use to clean up the outside of the engine to remove any oil or dirt? Can I simply just spray it all down with a pressure washer while its cold or am I better off using brake cleaner or something similar to remove all the dirt and oil? Id like to clean it right up so its easier to spot any future oil leaks.

Thanks again for all your help
 

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I’d recommend not using a pressure washer to the side the of engine. Instead buy yourself some engine degreaser. Like this one from Gunk: (GUNK Engine Cleaner & Degreaser with Trigger Spray)

You essentially spray it on, let it sit for a about 4-5 minutes then rinse it off with your garden hose. I’ve used it to clean the engine on a family member’s lawnmower. And on my 300 KQ in 2019 to clean off the side of the crankcase where oil looked like it had been running down the side of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it runs fine and the leak isn’t excessive. You’ll do no damage running it the way it is. Just check the oil before each ride and pay close attention to the leak to make sure it doesn’t get any worse. If it does, I highly recommended you change the head gasket.
I think the only way for me to know for sure is to get the engine cleaned up and start running the bike to see where exactly its coming from. Its leaking at the bottom of the engine but it could be from the top and running down by gravity in behind where I cant see it. Could it possibly be coming from one of the valve caps and leaking down the engine? Again I guess cleaning up the engine well and watching for leaks closely as I drive it is the only real way to tell for sure.

Id like to avoid tearing apart the engine to replace the head gasket if possible. Ive never done it but I assume its a big job
 

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Yes, degreasing the engine then driving it around to see where the oil is coming from would be the first step. If it is indeed the head gasket then the whole engine doesn’t need to be taken apart. Though you’d have to remove a good portion of the plastics, remove the carb, air box, and the ducting to gain access to the head bolts. Once you gain access, remove the bots securing the head and remove it.

Once removed, clean both contact surfaces and use RTV sealer on the cylinder part of engine if a head gasket is not available. Now put the head back on and torque the bolts to the required torque specification. Note that it’s also a good idea to inspect the head while it’s off to see if anything is worn, cracked, or doesn’t look right. You can also keep riding your bike the way it is and check the oil before each ride till the leak gets worse. Then at that point you’d have no choice but to fix it. And if doing this particular repair is out of your comfort level, then l suggest leaving it to a reputable shop to handle it. That repair alone would probably cost you between $800 - $1000 depending on shop rates and shop supplies. The cost would rise if the valves, valve springs, and other valve components need replacing. So make sure to get quotes before you do so you know what your up against. But seeing you don’t hear any significant chattering/ticking and your bike runs perfectly fine, I don’t suspect valve to an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, degreasing the engine then driving it around to see where the oil is coming from would be the first step. If it is indeed the head gasket then the whole engine doesn’t need to be taken apart. Though you’d have to remove a good portion of the plastics, remove the carb, air box, and the ducting to gain access to the head bolts. Once you gain access, remove the bots securing the head and remove it.

Once removed, clean both contact surfaces and use RTV sealer on the cylinder part of engine if a head gasket is not available. Now put the head back on and torque the bolts to the required torque specification. Note that it’s also a good idea to inspect the head while it’s off to see if anything is worn, cracked, or doesn’t look right. You can also keep riding your bike the way it is and check the oil before each ride till the leak gets worse. Then at that point you’d have no choice but to fix it. And if doing this particular repair is out of your comfort level, then l suggest leaving it to a reputable shop to handle it. That repair alone would probably cost you between $800 - $1000 depending on shop rates and shop supplies. The cost would rise if the valves, valve springs, and other valve components need replacing. So make sure to get quotes before you do so you know what your up against. But seeing you don’t hear any significant chattering/ticking and your bike runs perfectly fine, I don’t suspect valves to be an issue.
Thks for the tips! I think I'll do exactly that this summer, get it cleaned up and drive it to try to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. I've done a lot of small repairs on the bike and its running great (4800kms on it). Still lots of life in the bike I think.

Once I get it cleaned up and can post same some better pics I'll update this thread. Its hard to see where it might be coming from with a greased up dirty engine.
Thanks again for your input you've been a big help! By
 

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Not a problem, glad I could help. And yeah, degreasing everything will definitely help in pinpointing the source of the leak. I had to do that on the recoil side of my crankcase on my 300 KQ as I had oil running down the side of it. It would then pool onto my skid plate then slowly drip through one of the drain holes on the skid plate onto the floor.

Only after using the “Gunk” degreaser and cleaning everything up that I noticed one of my recoil starter bolts was missing. Was able to get the proper bolt off of my brother in-law’s parts bike and it’s been fine ever since. Keep us updated whenever you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not a problem, glad I could help. And yeah, degreasing everything will definitely help in pinpointing the source of the leak. I had to do that on the recoil side of my crankcase on my 300 KQ as I had oil running down the side of it. It would then pool onto my skid plate then slowly drip through one of the drain holes on the skid plate onto the floor.

Only after using the “Gunk” degreaser and cleaning everything up that I noticed one of my recoil starter bolts was missing. Was able to get the proper bolt off of my brother in-law’s parts bike and it’s been fine ever since. Keep us updated whenever you can.
Thats exactly my problem. After running it for awhile I can see oil slowly dripping through the skid plate from underneath. I hope its something as simple as a missing or loose bolt…..
 

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Hello. I was looking at those pictures. Maybe a bit of oil coming from under the jug. Also If someone was to pull the head wouldn't it also be a good time to replace the gasket under the cylinder jug ? And inspect the rings n piston, hone the cylinder.
Are the rubber timing inspection plugs available ? I replace the o rings on timing covers frequently.
Good luck man
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello. I was looking at those pictures. Maybe a bit of oil coming from under the jug. Also If someone was to pull the head wouldn't it also be a good time to replace the gasket under the cylinder jug ? And inspect the rings n piston, hone the cylinder.
Are the rubber timing inspection plugs available ? I replace the o rings on timing covers frequently.
Good luck man
Hi, thks for your input. The dripping oil on the driveway to starting to drive my wife mad lol
I am planning to get the engine cleaned up this weekend and try to pinpoint the leak exactly. If possible I was hoping to use some JB weld and stop the leak where ever it is coming from...I have no experience removing the head but I may dive into it if I determine that I have no choice but to replace the gasket.

I was looking at the valve covers last night and both of them have some oil build up around them, probably indicating the o-rings should be replaced. Could this oil possibly just be coming from the valve covers? To me it looks as if its coming from the bottom of the engine, likely a gasket. The engine is greasy though which means oil was leaking from the top end at some point
 

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The valve inspection caps do have o-rings, so if you think they need replacing then there’s no harm in do so. Just make sure the caps and surrounding area are clean of any dirt etc before removing them to avoid any crap from falling into the inspection holes. If you do indeed decide to fix it correctly here’s a couple diagrams of the cylinder/cylinder head that you may find useful.


 
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