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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first ATV and my attempt at learning mechanics. I will be around the forum doing some reading and maybe asking some questions. This thread is my way of "helping" add content to this forum. I cant guarantee it will be very technical but it will be a collection of my progress with pictures and thoughts along the way.

I have attached a couple of pictures from me putting it on the trailer to my first set of before pictures. This should give a general overview of the present condition so over the course of the restoration we have a reference point. My original plan is to remove the suspension sandblast, paint then put it back together. I got a $20 sandblaster from Harbor Freight and have never done any sandblasting before. I wanted to make sure everything was tight so when I put a small plow on it for the winter it is reliable. We will see how things go from here. I know its old and rusty so this plan is very optimistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Night #1

Today I got an hour or two into it and was able to break down the ATV a bit. I removed the rear plastics, wheels and 2 out of the 3 (still a weird sentence to me) drums. The rear drum is stuck on pretty good so I am hopeful there is actually brake pads underneath. I knew the ATV had no brakes but was told everything was there it just didn't work. When I got into it more I found that the front left had nothing under the drum at all with the brake line hanging. The front right had the brake cylinder only and the rear is still a mystery. Also I noticed the master cylinder is missing so I have quite a bit of work to do here. I am a bit worried about this as I am not that mechanical and will have to buy parts based on a manual and somehow put all the pieces together. On a positive note I cant make it any worse right?

After getting the wheels off I managed to find that 2 of the studs were missing and were replaced with socket cap screws and a nut. I also managed to strip one of the nuts and had to cut it off along with the stud. So right off the bat I am 3 studs down. I don't think this is going to be too challenging and I always have the socket cap screws as a backup plan now that I know it is an "appropriate" method. :D

So far I have also found there is no battery. The red lead has been cut off and I have not been able to find the ground cable. This should be a good time figuring this out. I also found a fuse holder in the trunk that says spare fuse and had 2x20amp fuses in it. Along with the fuses in a nice stock holder it has a frayed cable that looks like it should be attached somewhere however I have no idea where yet. Maybe once I get the front plastics off???

The removal of things is taking a lot longer than it should as the bolts are all rusted and as an added bonus different sizes, lengths and head types. I am however keeping all the bolts and labeling them in plastic bags where they came from . I was going to sand blast them and put them all back in were they came from but I think I'm going to replaced them all with the same head type and stainless steel as well. If you are going to do something do it right the first time right? I am labeling the bag with a description and a part number which I am then in turn marking on the part it belongs to. It might seem a little weird but it is my way of staying organized so I dont have a bunch of left over bolts in the end. Plus with descriptions like "LT rear black mud guard (behind shifter) and Rear small mud guards (both sides) how can I possibly not know where everything goes?

I also found out there is a lot of grease/oil around the rear right frame/skid plate. I know I am going to have to do something about this but just yet I have not a clue of what to do or where it is coming from.

I am going to have to start limiting how many things I am taking off as I do need my garage spot for the winter so I only have a few months of work to do on it a few hours a week. Michigan is not known for being gentle in the winter time. I dont want to get too far down the road with this project this year. I will have to make a mental note of things I need to come back and fix next year after the winter. I already have a few hundred dollars of parts coming (wheel bearings, tie rods and ends, battery, filters, choke cable, etc) I told my wife I can always sell the ATV and get my money back if it doesnt work out so I hope what I am replacing will still allow me to do this but in my head this is all going to work as its supposed to and I am going to keep it. Thats all for tonight. More to come next time I have time to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Night #2

So I managed to get the rear drum off after a lot of abuse with a rubber hammer. Turns out the CAM for the rear brake is seized up and not moving. Once I realized this 2 hits of the hammer and it all fell apart. The good thing is all the parts are there which means it should be an easy fix to get at least some brakes on the machine. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the old CAM off. Im thinking heat but if anyone had any better ideas or techniques I am all ears.

I found quite the surprise last night with all the plastics off and after some frame cleaning. I originally thought the machine was a 92 (N code) however turns out it is an 87 (H code). Apparently I cant read as it was my mistake. There was just enough rust in the right spot to make it look like an N. Luckily all the parts that are already on the way should fit with no issue..... I hope.

I ordered new tires all the way around in the stock sizes then had the tire shop remove the old ones so I could clean up the rims while I wait for the new ones to come in. Turns out one of the tires was tubed as it wasn't holding air. The other one was full of sealant and wasn't holding air. I should have had them remove the old tires first and inspect the rims before I ordered the new tires. One of the rears had a lot of rust on it and a quick run around the lip with a screwdriver to smooth the lip off caused a big hole. I cant imagine for the life of me why it wasn't holding air:icon_ nono2: So I had to order a rear rim (used off ebay *crosses fingers*) in hopes that it solves all of my tire problems.
 

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I’m in the similar situation as you as I picked up a non running 250cc with little information, vin number show ps 1999, owner said it ran when they parked it, plastic is all off and trying to get to the carb as well as a rear oil leak somewhere, too much caked on mud to tell as of now. Good call on labeling the screws, I’m gonna do that from now on. Take some pics of the electrical system and I might be able to help as mine seems to be intact.
 

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Sounds like fun. My new-to-me Quadrunner needed a lot less work to get going, but has been fun nevertheless. Hope you are still making progress!

As winter comes around for me I plan to store mine in my enclosed trailer, for lack of a better place. Am tempted to get one of those tarp enclosures, a mini-garage, to park the 4 wheeler in, but I do worry a bit about theft.

On the rusty bolts, have you tried heat yet? I keep getting told that I should get a small acetylene setup, but others say that even a simple propane torch can do "lots" for freeing up stuck bolts.
 

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Sounds like fun. My new-to-me Quadrunner needed a lot less work to get going, but has been fun nevertheless. Hope you are still making progress!

As winter comes around for me I plan to store mine in my enclosed trailer, for lack of a better place. Am tempted to get one of those tarp enclosures, a mini-garage, to park the 4 wheeler in, but I do worry a bit about theft.

On the rusty bolts, have you tried heat yet? I keep getting told that I should get a small acetylene setup, but others say that even a simple propane torch can do "lots" for freeing up stuck bolts.
 

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Yes to propane torch although it take a long time to heat up, I also use a $10 heat gun from harbor freight that works surprisingly well. So far I got the carb out and cleaned which was not an easy task , that thing is a rats nest under the seat. A few swear words and bloody knuckles later got it out and cleaned. Still didn’t run, took apart the fuel pump which was fine but the gas line was clogged with white crusty stuff which was preventing gas flow. Up and running now. Leaky oil seal was the next task and was isolated to a common problem with these machines, front differential oil seal was the culpret. Was on my hands and knees trying to get at it until my uncle was able to help. We lifted it up with a skid steer on its rear end to access the differential. C- clips and needle bearings are not fun to remove but got her done. The main nut was on very tight, it had some sort of lock tight on it and we used a 3/4” breaker bar to crack it loose... thanks to my uncles farm equipment! It’s a tight fit under there too! Also made a mount for a winch and repainted all the metal. Welded on some snow plow shoes and painted the plow too. Works great now. I’ll post some pics for you too.
 

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Oh and the rear oil leak pic you posted is definitely a bearing seal, might as well replace the bearings while you have it ripped apart, I bought a set too but mine seem to be dry and not seeping oil like urs.
 
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