You will need 2 "special" tools.
1 is a flywheel puller, the other is a 29mm boxed end wrench that you'll have to heat and bend a bit to fit into the stator without touching the edge where the magnets are.
Fill your Amazon cart with these 4 things.
Also this if you don't have one...
Now that you've spent $100, you can do the job.
Also, I would recommend a new oil filter and 4 quarts of your favorite SAE 10w-40... as you will have to drain the oil to even begin...
I'm going to give you the nickle tour of this... but read the manual as it's 100% spot on. Also, depending on your mileage (I've seen bikes with 3000 miles opened up with 0 issues inside) but you may want to consider changing your timing chain, as you'll have to repeat EVERY step in this guide to get back to it if you ever need to change it.
1. Drain the oil and remove rear plastics, seat, rear rack, LH tire, (shock and swingarm help but aren't necessary).
2. Remove all 3 engine bolts (one under the front above the PTO to the front, and 2 out-back under the exhaust).
3. Remove engine "keeper" on the LH side (upright frame piece held in with 2 14mm bolts, the shifter cable goes to it).
4. Remove H/L/SL selector from the side of the case... note the dash on the splined shaft, as it will need to be re-assembled with it pointing towards the small dot on the selector arm.
5. Disconnect the Stator and Pickup leads from the harness.
6. Jack up the rear of the motor with a long screw-driver or pry bar. The motor needs to lift up about an inch to get the cover out from inside the frame.
7. Pop out the rear LH drive shaft from the housing if you can... if you can't it's no big deal.. just makes prying the cover off kind of tough.
8. Remove the recoil starter (8mm bolts), remove the recoil basket, 14mm, normal thread.
9. Remove all of the 8mm bolts holding on the stator cover, there is 1 in the middle, as well as a couple hiding under the heat shield for the exhaust... you may have to remove the entire heat shield as well to get at some of the bolts. The two upper right-hand bolts also hold the shifter cable in place for the H/L/SL selector. Note all bolts position in the stator as they are all different lengths.
10. Oil will puke out, get a bucket.
11. Tap/pry the cover off gently. Try not to introduce screwdrivers to gasket surface if you can avoid it... if you must... only do so on the top half of the cover and sparingly. There are 2 dowels, one at the upper left and one at the lower right (by the drive shaft)... they can sometimes be stuck. You need to manage pulling off from the sides, as well as pushing the H/L/SL selector IN while pulling... chances are, gears, washers and potentially a couple of dogs and shift barrel will fall out when you do this... perfectly normal... but again, having a manual will help with re-locating all this when it's time for re-assembly.
12. Once the stator cover is safe and out of the way (try not to bang anything into the flywheel) remove the nut holding on the flywheel, then you can thread on the safety cap for the skinny end of the crankshaft onto these threads, keep about 2mm gap between the base of the cap and the face of the flywheel "nut" (basically a nut built into the flywheel).
** skip ahead to step 16 for an important note.
13. Grab your 29mm box wrench, and fit it to the flywheel, then thread-on your puller as FAR AS IT WILL GO. Hold the 29mm tight or let it rotate around and hit the foot-rest... then tighten the puller bolt until you hear a pop.
14. Unthread the puller, remove the wrench, remove the safety cap, then pull off the flywheel.
15. The starter gear may be seized to the bearing... lightly tap it with a block of wood, plastic hammer, or brass hammer to un-lodge it. It shouldn't take much effort. Looking at the gear (back of the stator) you want it to spin COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
16. Once the gear is removed, you have to remove the 3, 6mm allen keys holding the one-way bearing housing to the flywheel. **These SUCK. I had to re-mount the flywheel lightly in the engine, put the 29mm wrench back on the main bolt of the flywheel and remove them that way... it's just a slippery mess to hold onto. You can actually do this step after step 12.
17. Once the carrier is removed from the flywheel (DONT DROP OR IMPACT THE FLYWHEEL IN ANY WAY, it could de-magnetize it.) Install the new one-way bearing. Test that the starter gear spins counter clockwise (facing you from the back of the flywheel) and install the new nuts provided.
Install the new stator or gasket, put everything back together the way it was, fill it with oil and try it out.
*I'm not an expert, only a guy who just did this to his machine with good results.. I won't be held responsible for negligence, wrong parts, incorrect procedure or for your inability to read the manual and instead trusting a random jerk on the internet. Proceed at your own risk, your mileage may vary.