I've been slowly chipping away at this thing and made some good progress in the past weeks:
The straight tie rods pictured before ended up contacting the frame and wheels before full lock, so I made a mock up using scrap parts to get an idea of what I needed:
Test fit with new wheels:
1/2-20 heims, jam nuts, high misalignment spacers and inserts were sourced from Barnes 4wd and .875"x.065 DOM tube was ordered from an online metal store to build new tie rods:
After using some heat to bend the tie rods, I came up with this:
You may notice the long bolt holding the tie rods to the steering- while I would have preferred to mount a joint top and bottom, there simply wasn't room to do that. I am going to add some kind of brace to help support that bolt. Note that all hardware is metric grade 10.9 for strength.
I got it assembled and took it for a test drive on the new wheels and tires:
A few notes and observations- I'll be the first to admit I don't know much at all about steering geometry, so getting this setup dialed in will be lots of trial and error (heavy on the error). I am able to get full lock in both directions, so I believe I can adjust out the problems I'm having. I think it takes greater effort to steer now since I don't have the mechanical advantage that I used to, but its not bad. The heims I bought are Barnes Economy joints and I'm very pleased with them, but I do wish they were stiffer. Since the tie rod has a bend in it, it likes to flop around, so I had to get creative with adjustments to keep the rods from moving too much. This is a problem with my design and not the heims though. All in all, I'm pleased- having working brakes is a nice change!
So, to sum this swap up, you'll need:
-Eiger 400 knuckles, hubs and calipers
-4/110 wheels to match the new bolt pattern
- Custom tie rods and hardware
I'll keep this updated once I get the steering dialed in.