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post #1 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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New to this forum. Own a 2002 Quadrunner 500 and 2007 King Quad 700.

Started having serious issue with the KQ700 this weekend. Started up OK, seems to work fine when cold, but after warmed up it starts to backfire and run REALLY ROUGH. If I feather the throttle and can get the rpm's up it will mostly pull itself. On one trip this weekend I did this throttle feathering for about a mile while it backfired and ran rough, then I turned a corner and then it worked perfectly normal for the next mile (I didn't do anything different--just like someone threw a switch, i.e., quad running poorly then all of a sudden it was fine). Battery was run down, charged the battery overnight and it seemed to work OK for the first 30 minutes the next day (cold) and then started acting up again once it was warmed up. Battery still has enough of a charge to start the quad.

Background:
- quad had worked well since new in 2007. I did have the battery drain issue that I put in a switch to isolate the battery when not in use.
- Fall 2018 I winterized, changed oil, added fuel stabilizer, new spark plug (~3000 miles)
- quad sat over winter (~6 months), added 3-4 gallons fresh fuel this spring and first trip of 10-15 miles it worked as normal
- this weekend once the quad was warmed up it started backfiring, running really rough.

Google searches suggest a plugged fuel filter--I can try this, but highly doubt the fuel filter is the issue as it seems to work OK when cold, just when it is warmed up that the issue surfaces and even at that it will choke and sputter for a while and then all of a sudden start working normal (if it was a plugged fuel filter it the problem should persist).
- I will try changing the spark plug (even though it is a new plug these things can be faulty from factory)

Seems more like an electrical problem. I am not sure what shape the battery is in, but it does take a charge OK, and it has enough of a charge to start the quad.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 11:44 AM
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What is the voltage of the battery before starting it, (Cold). Then running..? You can use a volt meter or multimeter to check the voltages at the battery. And welcome to the Forum.


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2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
14,000 + km/s
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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I will check tonight. I was having the issue of the battery discharging over time from non-use so I put in a switch to isolate the battery when not in use--works great if I remember to use the switch
Do you know what the voltage should be cold and with the bike running? I'd expect a cold battery to be around that 12.6 V, running higher by 1-2 V.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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I should mention that I spoke to the local Suzuki service guy. He essentially ruled out a plugged fuel filter (that should be a consistent problem). He said the backfiring is the Suzuki fail-safe mode (no lights on the dash though). Recommendation was to bring into the shop and they will put it on the scanner as any codes should be saved. His initial thought was a TPS sensor. Kind of scary as the bike almost left me stranded in bear country.
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 01:53 PM
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TPS sensor is plausible. As for the voltages for the 700, Iím not sure. The 300 KQ is 13.0 - 13.3 volts at idle. And around 13.8 -14.0 when revving the engine. So your 700 might be a bit higher voltage then that. But a rested battery is around 12.6V which is correct.


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2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
14,000 + km/s
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-24-2019, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Battery at rest is 12.7V, idling 13.4V. I know the KQ700 doesn't have a great charging reputation, but with it being greater than 12.7V it should be OK and imply the rectifier is working OK. I know these KQ700's are a bit finicky with having a fully charged battery for the Fuel Injection.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-29-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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OK, Suzuki dealership put it on the scope and no codes. They adjusted the TPS--said this can cause backfiring. The other thing might be the ignition switch. Will try it out this weekend and see what happens. If it is the ignition switch I should see the gauges flickering when it is backfiring.

One other thing...the gauge has the characters "err" just above the hours on Standard and Trip A, Trip B is OK. The Suzuki dealer said this is due to starting when battery is at low voltage. The only fix from the Suzuki is a new gauge ($400+). Does anyone know the schematics for the gauges and would it be possible to replace the single diode (probably a $1 part) to repair the gauge.
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File Type: jpg Suzuki Kingquad 700 err.jpg (277.7 KB, 9 views)
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 07:31 AM
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I have a RZR that bogs down after warmed up. Fault code points to the TPS as well. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Strange you can't clear that Err message. Disconnect the battery for a bit? Otherwise at $400, I'd ignore it.

Former: 09 LTA 450 AXI KQ, 93LT-F4WDX KQ, 93LT-F4WDX KQ, 94LT-F4WDX KQ, 95LT-F4WDX KQ, 87 LT230 QR, 89 LT80 QS
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-01-2019, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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New issue now...took it for a spin and the FI indicators comes on the gauge and the red light (top-right). Planning to take it back to the dealer today, but now the dealer says the are backed up for more than 2 weeks. Not even sure if they can fit in the time to put it on the scanner (not impressed).

The 'err' message is a burnt out diode according to the dealer. only dealer repair is to replace the gauge (not going to happen). Would like to find an electronics guy that could isolate the diode as that is a $1 part (at max).
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-08-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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found a repair guy online that does a replacement for the gauges for under $100, but the 'err' doesn't bother me enough to spend $100.

The dealer scanned the quad again...they claim it is a faulty ignition switch. Supposed to get the new switch this week. Apparently the original ignition switches would get moisture in them and then rust connections (poor design Suzuki). I guess if this happened when under warranty (6 months from new) I could have gotten a new switch, but not after 12 years
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