2000 500 Quadmaster stumbles? - Page 3 - Suzuki ATV Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 03-29-2011, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Angry My issue must be eletrical....

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Originally Posted by Masshole View Post
Fortunately, I did not run it with fuel in the oil... I gave it 3 changes of oil before I actually rode it! I was concerned about the clutches bathed in fuel though. The petcock seems fine, just a one time deal I guess. The issue is the not running part now. Just doesn't want to fire. If I leave it sit for a while she'll start, run for a minute, then die, backfire, and will not start again... Took the carb off and it's clean, float levels good...I'm stumped!
Well, mine is doing the same exact thing now. It ran for a little bit and bogged out so, I thought it was the carb. I have my carb in factory OEM condition, its like new and it ran great when I put it back on. Even started quick and pulled nice. After 10 minutes or so, nothing. Just quit firing, starters is strong, pulled the battery down to 12.60....

It died like I turned off the key. Hasn't started since... I do have spark though. I'm going to do the electrical testing per the manual, I've read thats its probably the regulator. I know its not charging at idle like it should and it tops out at 14.01 when reved up. I just need the will power to pull the plastic and look at the wiring.... Maybe one day it will run! I'll check for a melted regulator first since my charging is weak per the manual.

The saga continues....
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post #22 of 26 Old 03-29-2011, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation

Well the regulator/rectifier failed the diode test and I know from before it was not putting out 13.5 to 15.5 volts. More like 13.01 at idle and 14.11 when at high rpm.

Circuits B2 and B3 failed on the negative check... I stopped after a few .000 readings. The other wires were middle range .55 and the B/W were .945, nothing on B2 or B3, B1 was in range.

So, maybe thats my problem. It's not charging well on the DC side and I guess the coil is not getting enought juice to run the engine. I do get spark which made me think it was a fuel issue. But, I just hope its not strong enough to run it. The coil seems fine with .2 resistance.

The best oem price I've found so far is $181.82 for part # 32800-44D21

Electrosport wants $79, part # ESR574

Last edited by Sagebrush; 03-29-2011 at 02:40 PM. Reason: more info
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post #23 of 26 Old 04-16-2011, 05:20 PM
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I did order a factory manual. That's pretty much the story- got spark, assumed it's a fuel. Thanks for the part #'s though!! I was putting off pulling the plastic off as long as possible... I do not have much else to check!
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post #24 of 26 Old 04-17-2011, 02:44 PM
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Hey Sagebush (and all posters), my dad and I are following your posts. We're having the same problem that you describe.
Funny thing, this is the second time we've had the problem. The first time there was blockage in the fuel line - he blew it out with compressed air and we lost the piece before we could identify it.
Now the problem isn't so easy to fix. We haven't pulled the carb off yet, but that's probably the next step.
Thanks for posting, just wanted to let you know that there are interested readers.
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post #25 of 26 Old 04-25-2011, 12:22 PM
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The Saga continues...

Funny thing... I finally got mine running. Ran for only a few minutes and got called away (as usual it seems). The next day- Starter solenoid will only make a nasty electrical "clicking" sound. It checks out ok, but so has everything else I've checked. The strange things is when I turn the key to the headlight on position, i have no lights... So looks like I will be making yet another purchase. Locally $80.00, looking online $60. Any recommendations for parts suppliers??
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post #26 of 26 Old 01-29-2012, 07:24 AM
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Problem solved! Bad dioad in rectifier regular shorting out and kicking back ac to ignition. Fixed surging problem.

Also check the slide needle clip position, should be in position 3 with no spacer washer, this stopped the after fire.
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