Can't figure out how to do an oil change on the older model (250) Quadrunners, or (300) King Quads..? Need help or just looking for some tips..? Well if you are then this thread is for you. Getting intrigued yet..? Well maybe you are maybe you’re not, but in any case a written version and a video version are enough to get most of everybody's attention. Though I promise you a video version along with the written one, it won't be available yet because of some technical issues. So bare with me, I'll get it posted eventually. So without further ado let's get at it.
Now, if you’re new to these model atvs then for the most part you won’t know where the oil filter/drain location/fill location are so it’s probably best we start with that. The oil filter is located behind the right rear tire, it’ll be more towards the front portion of the tire. Note the following pic:
In the following picture you’ll note a small round glass to the right, this is what’s known as the sight glass. The sight glass is how you check the engine oil level and requires level terrain to get an accurate reading. And to the left of the sight glass you’ll note a small cover with 3 small nuts, behind this cover is where the oil filter is located.
Now the oil drain plug for the engine/rear differential is located underneath the atv, it’s off slightly to right hand side. If you look closely you’ll note a small indented hole within the skid plate, here within this hole is the drain bolt for the engine/rear differential which share the same oil. Here’s a pic of the drain location:
The filler plug location for the engine/rear differential is located at the very rear of the atv, again it’ll be off to the right hand side. Here’s a pic off the filler plug location:
So with that said let’s look at a list of things you’ll need. Now, you’re going to need a ratchet, 14mm socket for the drain bolt, 10mm socket for the filter cover nuts, oil pan, Oil Filter
- Suzuki Part (#16510-25C00), Filter Cover O-ring
- Suzuki Part# (09280-54001), Filter Housing O-ring
- Suzuki Part# 09280-13004, & motorcycle oil (SAE 10W40) which is rated SF and SG under the API service classification chart. However, if you’re planning on operating your atv in colder weather, ( -0 Or Colder) you can use SAE 5W30 motorcycle oil instead of 10W40 which allows for easier starts and less stress on engine components.
O.k, now that were set let’s get started. First thing you’re going to want to do is start the atv and let it idle for about 5 to 10 minutes to warm the oil, doing so will allow for better oil flow when you drain the oil. Note: Do not heat the oil for too long however as doing so may result in mild to severe burns if you get some on your hands etc. Now, after the oil is properly warmed up level the atv as best as possible and shut it down. This is key because if the atv is on unlevel terrain it will yield an inaccurate reading when it comes time to filling it.
So with the oil warmed and the atv level the next step is to drain the oil. First thing you’re going to do is remove the filler plug at the rear of the atv, then with your ratchet and 14mm socket loosen the drain bolt but do not remove it. Next place your oil pan and remove the drain bolt, but pay close attention because when your near the end the oil is going to come out and you’ll probably get some on your hands. So having some paper towels in this spot is highly recommended. Now, while the oil’s draining you may as well grab yourself a brewski or whatnot and take a 5-10 minutes break while you wait for the oil to completely drain. Once you’re done your beverage of choice there’s two things you can either do, you can take the drain plug and reinstall it or you can flush some of that old oil that may be lingering at the bottom of the crankcase. If you chose to flush it some simply take a small amount of new oil and pour some through the filler hole until you see the oil exit the drain hole, you can do this a couple times if you chose so it’s up to you. Once you’re satisfied with everything reinstall the drain plug and tighten it to 21 N-m (2.1 kg-m, 15.0 lb-ft).
Now let’s move to the oil filter, take your oil pan and move it right under the oil filter location. Note: For easier access to the filter location you can remove the right rear wheel to give yourself some extra room to work with. Now take you’re ratchet and 10 mm socket and remove the 3 nuts holding the filter cover on. Once the nuts are removed slowly take the filter cover off while paying close attention to the spring and large o-ring which are on the inside of the filter cover, make sure you don’t lose them. Once all parts are accounted for remove the old oil filter but pay close attention to it's orientation when you pull it out, this way you’ll know which way to insert the new filter when the time comes. After you’ve removed the oil filter take a peek inside the filter housing, you should see a small o-ring situated at the back of the housing. If you don’t see one then look around to make sure it didn’t come out with the filter. With all o-rings accounted for make a quick wipe inside the housing and make sure it’s clean as possible.
With the removal process all complete take your new o-rings and apply a slight film or oil to each one. Then carefully reinstall each o-ring while making sure that you don’t pinch them or damage them in any way. Take your new oil filter and install it the same way you took the old one out, but if by some chance it slipped your mind the open end of the filter goes in first. Now reinstall the filter cover and tighten each nut securely but don’t over tighten them. Again, watch that you don’t pinch the o-ring on the inside of the filter cover. Then reinstall the right rear wheel, (If You’ve Removed It) and torque each nut to 55 N-m (5.5 kg-m, 40 lb ft).
With everything tightened down correctly it’s time to add the oil. Now, adding the oil with just the bottle is near darn impossible without spilling any and making a mess, the space you have to work with is just too tight. What I recommend using is a one piece funnel with a skinny neck, you can easily manipulate it with one hand and pour with the other. But whatever you find works best for you will do. Now, the (250) Quadrunner & (300) King Quad take roughly 3.5 quarts of oil without and filter and 3.8 quarts with a filter. In any case I always recommend replacing the filter and oil together, not only is it good practice but it’s also better for the engine and allows for proper oil circulation. Now, you can go right ahead and add the amount of oil stated above and take a chance the level will be accurate when you’re done, or you can do it my method which is less likely to cause an overfill.
So using my method take your first 3 quarts and add them immediately until your left with your last quart, (4th bottle). But before you start adding your last quart check the oil level in the sight glass, chances are you won’t see any but then again you may. Now, start adding your final quart but do so a little at a time while checking the sight glass frequently. Once you get the oil level in between the lines on the sight glass reinsert the filler plug finger tight only and start the bike, let it idle for 2-3 minutes to let the oil circulate through the filter. Note: While the atv is idling check around the filter cover and drain plug for any leaks, if there are any you should fix it right away. Once your satisfied you have no leaks and the oil has properly circulated through the filter shut the bike off and allow the oil to settle, about 2-3 minutes should suffice. Once the oil has settled check the sight glass again, you should see no oil or very little. Remove the filler plug again and top off the oil until the level is in between the lines on the sight glass, reinsert the filler plug and snug it with pliers and your done. Note: I always keep the remaining quart of oil with my atv, should you ever need any for whatever reason it’s there if you need it.