Busted CV Boot - Suzuki ATV Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 05-07-2012, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Busted CV Boot

Now this might be a bit of a problem:

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I went for another ride today and when i stopped to check things out with the bike i noticed some grease on the inside of the rim and tire, and upon closer inspection i notice the CV boot was loosing grease. So after i got home i took the tire off and the CV boot guard and whipped some of the grease off. After a closer inspection it seems the boot has a small tear at the top near the band. For now, I'm not quite sure how I'm going to go about this seeing i haven't ever tackled one before. This is definitely the time where i wish i could have some of my forum buddies to lend me a hand.

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s

Last edited by ajl719; 06-27-2014 at 12:44 PM. Reason: New Image Insertion
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post #2 of 25 Old 05-08-2012, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Alright guys, i got a question. How hard of a task is it to fix this CV boot..? I've been told by two dealerships that in order to fix the outer CV boot i would have to remove the axle from the bike then fix the CV boot then re-install it. Thing is, i either have to do this myself or wait 3+ weeks because both dealerships are booked so my quad would be out of commission for until then.

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s
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post #3 of 25 Old 05-08-2012, 05:17 PM
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I never did one myself but snap a few pics as you go along, I couldn't wait that long either. Goodluck
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post #4 of 25 Old 05-09-2012, 01:09 PM
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You will need to take off the wheel after you have jacked the front end up and then you wheel see a large nut with a cotter pin going through the end of the axle. Take the cotter pin out then loosen the nut and take it off. There is a couple of nuts with cotter pins going through them on the top and bottom ball joints that the steering knuckle is held on by, after you have all of the nuts off then you will need to use a U-Joint separator it looks like this:
K Tool International Ball Joint Separator Pickle Fork | Wayfair
Once you get both ball joints broke loose let the drum and steering knuckle sit on something to keep undue pressure off of the brake line. It will be easy to remove the outer end of the CV joint after you get both ball joints off the steering knuckle then pull straight out on the hub assembly and the hub will slide off the end of the axle. Then using the same tool that I showed above, get the end of that tool just barely between the inner end of the axle and the differential and lightly tap it with a regular hammer and it will break the lock ring free and then it will just slide out the rest of the way. After you have it removed all you have to do is take the old boot off and use some brake or carb cleaner to clean out the end joint where dirt or mud may have gotten in there, then put one end of the new boot on and then fill it with grease as you can and then put other end on and then reassemble. I hope this helps but if you need help along the way just ask away I will be on as much as I can but I still have this crud that I can't seem to shake so I have been sleeping a lot.




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1997 King Quad 300 Still Alive and Kicking Just Giving It A Rest
As In Life: Always Try The Simplest Things First Then Move On to The Bigger Things To Fix The Problems In Front Of You - TUBBYTUBB
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post #5 of 25 Old 05-09-2012, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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How's the ball joint separator work..? Do i just put that tool between the A-arm and ball joint and hammer the other end of the tool until the ball joint pops off..? And I'm assuming any auto parts store carry this tool more then likely..?

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s
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post #6 of 25 Old 05-09-2012, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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O.k Thomas, i found the ball joint separator tool you were talking about: ( Ball Joint Tool | Canadian Tire ) I'd have to wait till the weekend to get the tool and a CV boot however cause I'm working all week and plus i have to drive 40 minutes to this store to get the tool and a CV boot from the dealership.

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s
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post #7 of 25 Old 05-10-2012, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, so i may get beat over the head with an ugly stick for saying this here but i decided to take my quad to a Bombardier dealership to get the CV boot changed. I know, i know, Suzuki all the way, but they fix all atv's and were the quickest to be able to get it done within a week. And there were are a couple other factors why i decided to go this route and one is i didn't have a few tools needed for the job, and second i would of had to wait till next week to pick up a CV boot because i work all week and am busy Saturday.

In the end i would of loved to have tried this myself, but there is always next time and when that time comes i plan on being ready tools and all. And i just want to say thanks for the help Thomas, the information you gave me wasn't completely in vain. I will use it for further reference when i have issues with my other boots.

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s
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post #8 of 25 Old 05-19-2012, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, so as many of you may know or not know i ended up getting my CV boot changed by a Bombardier dealership last week. You may also know it felt like i totally got ripped off as well, $194 to get a CV boot replace in my eyes is just retarded. Anyhow, what is done is done. But now i have a few questions regarding doing this repair so I'm ready the next time this happens.

#1. When using the pickle fork, ( Ball Joint Separator ) - ( K Tool International Ball Joint Separator Pickle Fork | Wayfair ), where exactly do you place this tool in order to separate the ball joints from the steering knuckle..? And is removing the rear axles almost the same as removing the front ones or is it easier..?

#2. When separating the axle from the front differential, does the front differential oil need to be drained..?

#3. When removing the CV boot itself do i need any kind of special tool to remove the CV boot bands or is there another method of doing this without having to buy a tool..? And what about re-installing the CV boot bands, same situation..?

#4. What other kind of tools do i need to purchase besides a pickle fork, ( Ball Joint Separator ), in order to do this job the easiest and best way possible...?

Any and all help to any of my questions is greatly appreciated.

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s

Last edited by ajl719; 05-19-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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post #9 of 25 Old 05-19-2012, 12:22 PM
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1. You put the two prongs right in between the end of the axle and the differential and use a small hammer and lightly tap it until the snap ring disengages from the inside of the differential.
2. No it doesn't need to be.
3. A small pair of pliers and screwdriver is all you need to remove them, lightly pull the two arms up with the screwdriver then use the pliers to pull them up rest of the way. When putting them back on you can use a small zip tie to hold the bands in place until you can get one side knocked down then pop the zip tie loose then do the other side.
4. Plenty of shop towels to try and keep everything nice and clean, I have always been a firm believer in the cleaner you can keep things the better things operate when you are done working on it.

Anything else you may need clarification on just ask away I'll help as much as I can, oh and BTW I'm sorry for not getting back to this thread before you decided to take it to the dealership but as you and most everyone knows I was fighting a bad case of bronchitis and I was pretty much a zombie until I got to feeling better.




THOMAS

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1997 King Quad 300 Still Alive and Kicking Just Giving It A Rest
As In Life: Always Try The Simplest Things First Then Move On to The Bigger Things To Fix The Problems In Front Of You - TUBBYTUBB
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post #10 of 25 Old 05-19-2012, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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I understand fully man, so don't sweat it. I understand more then anyone here what it is like when your not feeling the greatest. I myself take 34 pills a day, some to control blood pressure, some for heart rhythm, some for stomach issues, one to weaken my immune system, and probably more that can't think of right now. So i know full well that when your not on to answer me or anyone else right away your concentrating on yourself and will get around to it when you get a chance.

A few things actually made me decide to go the dealership route. The first thing was that i was very busy with work and didn't have any time to repair it or drive 40 some odd minutes to go buy a pickle fork and a CV boot. And secondly, being completely new to this and wanting my quad for the long weekend and not being sure how long it would take me, i kind of got desperate without really thinking it through and ended up paying a nice hefty price.

Anyhow, in the end i kind of screwed myself over. I paid way more then expected and now i have no cash to put some petrol in my quad and go riding like planned. So this weekend will be spent cleaning house a mowing the lawn and using whatever petrol i have left in my quad to do a little yard work.

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4
K&N Air Filter
2300 lbs Superwinch
Kenda Bear Claws (Rear 25X10-12) - (Front 24X9-11)
Differential Lock Mod
13,000 + km/s
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